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Black Christmas

5.13b, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, February 22, 2009
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Fee
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Description

Black Christmas (named for the 1973 horror movie) is the straight-up/right-trending mega-line on the Outer Dark wall.

Begin down and left at the toe of the wall about six moves into Outer Dark. Move up past a sloping hueco and continue generally up and right along rails, crimps, gastons and sidepulls. Super-continuous climbing with only a couple shakes, and the crux at the top. Finish out over the slab for full value.

I imagine you could - in theory - boulder this out, with lots of pads and willing victims (er, spotters) lining the big slot. However, the moves are gymnastic and a too-wild fall at the end would probably spit you past the ledge and into the 40-foot dropoff.

As it is, a good TR - if you fall or hang, be sure to press off the slab behind you. Best short power-endurance climb in the Flatirons?

Location

East side of Fee, 75 yards due west of Bidoigt across the big gully.

Protection

100 feet of static line, toprope rope, gear for the anchors. I scrambled around right and came back down the ramp to rig.

We put in two separate anchors, one for each strand of the static line.

  • South anchor had purple (#1) Metolius Master Cam, a #1 Camalot, and the tree stump tied off.
  • North anchor had #4 Camalot, #9 Metolius, #2 Camalot, and down below (in the vertical crack) a #6 Metolius Master Cam.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Hand and the horn of Der Freischutz as viewed from the middle of Black Christmas (i.e., on top of the slab behind it).
[Hide Photo] The Hand and the horn of Der Freischutz as viewed from the middle of Black Christmas (i.e., on top of the slab behind it).
Black Christmas viewed from the top of the slab.
[Hide Photo] Black Christmas viewed from the top of the slab.
Anchor pieces: BD #2 + #3 on left by the stump, BD #0.75 + #1 on the right in the shallow crack.
[Hide Photo] Anchor pieces: BD #2 + #3 on left by the stump, BD #0.75 + #1 on the right in the shallow crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Israel R
[Hide Comment] Approach beta: approach the hand by taking the Mallory Cave Trail until you arrive at the shabby east face of The Hand. The climber's trail skirts up the gully climber's left of the east face. Once you reach the sport climbs at The Hand, walk past some boulders to the notch between The Hand and Der Freischutz, and drop into the gully between The Hand and Fee. Cross the gully directly west until you get to Fee, and head slightly uphill. The outer dark wall is up a notch. From the mouth of the notch, chalk should be visible on Black Christmas. If you reach a gully that goes west around the north end of Fee, you've gone slightly too far (this gully takes you to the anchor area). The wall is east facing and the rock felt very comfortable all day on a 45F sunny day. Jan 3, 2024
Israel R
[Hide Comment] Anchor beta: to reach the anchor area, scramble west up the gully climber's right of the outer dark wall. When you can, break left through a notch onto the slabby east face of Fee. Carefully pick your way down some runnels until the runnels fizzle by an old tree stump; take care in the winter, some of the runnels could hold snow for a few days. I built the first half of my anchor here; standing by the tree stump place a BD #2 and #3 (I didn't bother with the tree stump, as it seemed thoroughly rotten). Rap 10-15ft down and climber's right to find a shallow crack that takes a BD #1 and #0.75. I then placed my masterpoint just above a small shelf which marks the end of the topout for Black Christmas. If you have enough static line and don't want to do the top out, you could place the masterpoint at the lip.

If you are TRS, you can place a BD #0.5-0.75 just below the lip for a rebelay.

Really be careful of the slab behind you when climbing, because of the overhanging nature of the climb, you will pendulum very hard into it, especially on the first half. Ask me how I know.... Jan 3, 2024