Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||TR, 30 ft|
|FA:||Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, February 22, 2009|
|Page Views:||1,086 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Feb 22, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Begin down and left at the toe of the wall about six moves into Outer Dark. Move up past a sloping hueco and continue generally up and right along rails, crimps, gastons and sidepulls. Super-continuous climbing with only a couple shakes, and the crux at the top. Finish out over the slab for full value.
I imagine you could - in theory - boulder this out, with lots of pads and willing victims (er, spotters) lining the big slot. However, the moves are gymnastic and a too-wild fall at the end would probably spit you past the ledge and into the 40-foot dropoff.
As it is, a good TR - if you fall or hang, be sure to press off the slab behind you. Best short power-endurance climb in the Flatirons?
We put in two separate anchors, one for each strand of the static line.
- South anchor had purple (#1) Metolius Master Cam, a #1 Camalot, and the tree stump tied off.
- North anchor had #4 Camalot, #9 Metolius, #2 Camalot, and down below (in the vertical crack) a #6 Metolius Master Cam.