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Nosferatus

5.12c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 72 votes
FA: Alexotico Patino
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Salto > Tecolote Cave

Description

This is a killer route with steep moves from tufa to tufa to a final big move at the top before the anchor. Good use of drop knees, kneebars and heel hooks will make this route pretty reasonable. If you don't use these techniques then your in for a massive pump and probably some air time.

Location

Nosferatus is located in the main cave two routes right of Tecolote. There are no fixed draws on this route.

Protection

Bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beta bar
[Hide Photo] Beta bar
Beta bar
[Hide Photo] Beta bar
Mariia on Nos
[Hide Photo] Mariia on Nos
Mariia on Nos
[Hide Photo] Mariia on Nos
At the second crux below roof buldge
[Hide Photo] At the second crux below roof buldge
Right past the first crux
[Hide Photo] Right past the first crux
Benjamin Talbot-Gagnon on Nosferatus
[Hide Photo] Benjamin Talbot-Gagnon on Nosferatus
Beta bar
[Hide Photo] Beta bar
El Salto Life
[Hide Photo] El Salto Life
Curt MacNeill taking advantage of a sit down rest on Nosferatus...
[Hide Photo] Curt MacNeill taking advantage of a sit down rest on Nosferatus...
Milking the kneebar rest after the super steep lower half.
[Hide Photo] Milking the kneebar rest after the super steep lower half.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This route is a must do if your at the Tecolote Cave. As the description says, "use of drop knees and knee bars make this route reasonable" is an understatement. This route was very tricky for the grade because it was hard to read and tricky to find out how to sneakily rest and do some of the downright awkward moves from stalagtite to stalagtite. Overall, I felt like it was solid 12+ climbing. Either way, its super fun and mad props to anyone who can onsight this thing without seeing anyone on it...... Mar 25, 2012
[Hide Comment] Steep and delicious!

On the first section, there are [at least] two very different pathways. One involves moving right on a big iron-cross-ish sidepull to access some well-chalked tufas above, and the other moves left and up into a giant tufa. For my body size (tall), going left was easier and had more knee-bar rests. Feb 1, 2019
Connie Shang
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] Kneebars, kneebars, kneebars. Gotta catch 'em all! As a shorty my sequence for the low crux was to first go left to the cauliflower hold and then reach faaaaar right to the gray undercling jug. Jan 28, 2020
Will Lohman
Draper