Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike H, Bob D
Page Views: 2,665 total · 22/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on Feb 20, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Beautiful open book stemming corner. Solid rock with variety of athletic moves to 2 bolt anchor. One of the best routes at the grade at UV.


Middle of three dihedrals.


8 bolts. Ignore stuck bit at last bolt.
(Bob pulled the bit out 7/3/11)


Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
One of my history teachers was very emphatic that the term was "champing at the bit" rather than "chomping at the bit". Some research has confirmed this assertion: langston.com/English/

Not that it actually matters, and it is entirely possible this is an intentional mistake.

Anywho, thanks for putting up these awesome routes. Definitely putting this one my list for the next time I head up to UV. Apr 2, 2009
Mike Howard

Mike Howard    
Oh, Please...I quote:

"The earlier verb was champ, making its written debut in the 14th century and meaning "to bite, to gnash, to grind with one's teeth." It's still in use, though nowadays it appears almost exclusively in the phrase "champ at the bit." The verb chomp made its appearance in the late 16th century, and was clearly an alteration of "champ," sharing almost all of champ's meanings.

"Champ at the bit" was used before "chomp at the bit" and it has enjoyed a nice, long reign. However, popular usage has been swinging towards "chomp at the bit" since it first began being used in the phrase, sometime around the beginning of the 20th century. In fact, our evidence indicates that "chomping at the bit" is used in recent print sources more frequently than "champ at the bit," so we can't possibly ignore it."
© 2006 Merriam-Webster Incorporated Apr 3, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
Sounds like the Trugster got SERVED! =) Apr 4, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Yep. The average American thinks it's "chomping at the bit". And the average American is always right.

In all seriousness, it was not my intention in posting this to be a smart ass; I was simply attempting to provoke some interesting etymological discussion while bored out of my mind on spring break. Sorry to offend. Keep up the good work in the Taos Gorge - it's a great area! I look forward to finally getting on this route! Apr 4, 2009
Bowe Ellis
Taos, NM
Bowe Ellis   Taos, NM
Fun and full of stances. Seemed considerably easier than 11a. May 18, 2014