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Routes in Indian Head

Goof Proof Roof 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+
Paris Hilton T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Aid, 170 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Houser & Jai Watts, April 1978
Page Views: 2,893 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 18, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

C2F 5.8 as of 02/16/2009
Approach: 1-2 hours
Descent: 1-2 hours
South facing, so lots of sun

Goof Proof Roof is THE classic roof aid climb in Joshua Tree. It's got everything from bolts, to heads, to thin nailing, to scary free climbing. Definately a must do for the aspiring aid climber.

P1: Head, bolt, 7 heads, bolt, 4 more heads, anchor! The bolts are new fat bolts. The heads were all in good shape as of 2009_02_16. The heads are placed in drilled 1/4" or 3/8" holes. The hanging belay has lots of bolts and at least 1 new 3/8".

P1 original: Starts right of the bolt / head ladder and follows some rotten rock up easy fifth class free climbing to a beat out crack that looks more solid and takes thin pins, nuts, and cams. At the end of the crack follow the old bolts on homemade hangers left to the belay.

P2: The money pitch. Head straight up off the hanging belay and clip the nice (camo'ed) bolt right above your head to gain some fixed pins in the second tier roof crack and head up and right. Don't go straight out right from the belay on those weird 3 new bolts that are under the big roof. You want to traverse the lip of the big roof using the second tier roof. Follow fixed gear mixed with small cams until the roof ends at a nice fat 3/8" bolt. Head straight up here past a fixed head and bust a few free moves (5.6ish?) to gain the second belay at a good stance. Has good bolts, tat, and rap rings on the tat.

P3: The scary pitch. Head up and hard left. A good medium / smallish nut can be placed in the crack above the belay to protect the traverse left. Follow positive holds on loose rock for about 40' and you're done. Build a belay however you can figure it out up top. The cracks are sorta ghetto and just require a bit of thought to rig.

Apparently lots of people skip the last pitch and you can rap straight to the dirt with one 70m cord, but not positive on this.

Location

Under the gigantic roof on Indian Head. Follows the bolt / head ladder, traverses the lip of the roof on the second roof, finishes on top of Indian Head and allows an easy walkoff.

Protection

C2F 5.8 as of 02/16/2009

This route going clean depends on fixed heads and pins staying in place.

Clean rack:
micro cams: 10 (black - red aliens) Offsets helpful
micro TCUs
Nuts: 1 set
Micro nuts: 1 set
Tricam: black (new small size)
15-20 draws / slings
screamers

If fixed gear is missing:
thin pins: couple knifeblades, arrows, angles, and maybe a rurp or two.
Heads: mostly medium, but an assortment of #2-5 should be ample.


Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
Kris Solem and I made a few tries to free this roof..... we were stopped.

So we did a new climb about 40 - 60 feet left of GPR..... no bolts, a few wired stoppers for a belay and along the way. 2 pitches... IIRC about 10d..R

and fine place to get away from the hordes on a cool day. May 9, 2017
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
We did it "clean" (02/16/2009) which is why I graded it C2F. I was able to hand clean one knifeblade on the roof traverse that I reset with a couple whacks, which is why I say clean in quotes. All the fixed gear was bomber and the heads on P1 were in good / great shape. The only tricky placement was a small black tricam on the roof. Other than that, long reaches can get you to a lot of the fixed gear (i.e. sideways top stepping and using the face)

We were talking about the roof being free climbable. Definately the crux would be getting established in the roof, but after that it didn't look bad. Lots of good feet and pin scars to do the traverse. The first pitch traverse over to the hanging belay from the original P1 crack and into the roof looked VERY tough to free, but that's coming from a softy like me. Feb 19, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Not sure of his last name. I think he's around the same age as Steven Powers roughly (early 20s?). Anyway, I am pretty sure he free climbed it as opposed to clean-aid. Feb 19, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Spencer Pfingston? Do you mean he did it clean or actually climbed it free?

It looks like the would go free with all of the pin scars but not too sure about the moves starting that pitch. Feb 19, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I believe this was freed by a local kid named Spencer (don't know his last name). To my knowledge, he was the same one that did the first lead of Cheap Thrills as well. Feb 19, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Nice write-up with lots of helpful information. I've heard this goes clean, any idea if that's true? Feb 19, 2009