Type: Aid, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Houser & Jai Watts, April 1978
Page Views: 4,788 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 18, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

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Description

C2F 5.8 as of 03/16/2019

Approach: 1-2 hours

Descent: 1-2 hours

South facing, so lots of sun

Goof Proof Roof is THE classic roof aid climb in Joshua Tree. It's got everything from bolts, to heads, to thin nailing, to scary free climbing. Definately a must do for the aspiring aid climber.

P1: Head, bolt, 7 heads, bolt, 4 more heads, anchor! The bolts are new fat bolts. The heads were all in good shape as of March 2019. The heads are placed in drilled 1/4" or 3/8" holes. The hanging belay has 4 bolts (1 new 3/8", 2 solid buttonheads, 1 spinner).

P1 original: Starts right of the bolt / head ladder and follows some rotten rock up easy fifth class free climbing to a beat out crack that looks more solid and takes thin pins, nuts, and cams. At the end of the crack follow the old bolts on homemade hangers left to the belay.

P2: The money pitch. Head straight up off the hanging belay and clip the nice (camo'ed) bolt right above your head to gain some fixed pins in the second tier roof crack and head up and right. Don't go straight out right from the belay on those weird 3 new bolts that are under the big roof. You want to traverse the lip of the big roof using the second tier roof. Follow fixed gear mixed with small cams until the roof ends at a nice fat 3/8" bolt. Head straight up here past a fixed head and bust a few free moves (5.6ish?) to gain the second belay at a good stance. Has good bolts, tat, and rap rings on the tat.

P3: The scary pitch. Head up and hard left. A good medium / smallish nut can be placed in the crack above the belay to protect the traverse left. Follow positive holds on loose rock for about 40' and you're done. Build a belay however you can figure it out up top. The cracks are sorta ghetto and just require a bit of thought to rig. Apparently lots of people skip the last pitch and you can rap straight to the dirt with one 70m cord, but not positive on this.

Location

Under the gigantic roof on Indian Head. Follows the bolt / head ladder, traverses the lip of the roof on the second roof, finishes on top of Indian Head and allows an easy walkoff.

Protection

C2F 5.8 as of 02/16/2009

This route going clean depends on fixed heads and pins staying in place.

Clean rack:
micro cams: 10 (black - red aliens) Offsets helpful
micro TCUs
Nuts: 1 set
Micro nuts: 1 set
Tricam: black (new small size)
15-20 draws / slings
screamers

If fixed gear is missing:
thin pins: couple knifeblades, arrows, angles, and maybe a rurp or two.
Heads: mostly medium, but an assortment of #2-5 should be ample.

Photos