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Routes in Gunnison River Valley

After School Special T,TR WI4-5
Illusional - aka Talus Hill Climb T WI4- PG13
Type: Trad, Ice, 130 ft, Grade II
FA: '70s or '80s most likely
Page Views: 737 total, 7/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Feb 17, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The top 1/3 of this route is occasionally visible from CR3 as you drive south toward Sherman. It's a pure ice route. The approach is straightforward.

There is now an 8mm rope/sling around a 12" spruce about 20' beyond the crest of the ice, to rap the route.

There is a nice WI2 ice ramp along the falls left side.

As you view the cliff band, this route is seen in 'the' notch. I doubt you'd want to try to walk off - it would suck, and take forever.

= Cross the Gunnison River at a point just south of the small canyon, and stay in the dark timber as much as possible on the ascent. The talus is large and heinous. (Perhaps on a huge snow year, skinning up and skiing down will be fun and fast).

Once within 100' of base of the wall, take a hard right and traverse to the route.

From the road - plan just under one hour for the approach. On a good snow year, the approach would be more like 30 minutes.

Early ascents: Howard Pike in 1996 also by Matt Touchette and Ty Bones in 2003.

It is further suspected that Jeff Lowe & Mike Weis may have have hit these natural lines in the '70s?

Location

South of Lake San Cristobal.
1/2 mile south of the intersection of CR3 & CR33, 500' above the road on the east (left).
You can see the top half from a point just south of the narrows, and also again from the sunny valley bottom another one mile south.

Protection

Screws.

Photos

Ben Bruestle
Pueblo, CO
 
Ben Bruestle   Pueblo, CO
 
Like the description says above, stay in the dark timber/drainage on the edge of north side of the talus field for the approach. Once you encounter the cliff band, traverse along its base to the climb. The approach takes about an hour. Mar 18, 2013
LB Mullin Jr.
Gunnison, CO
LB Mullin Jr.   Gunnison, CO
I have always called this climb "THC" or "Talus Hill Climb". I climbed this early season 2008 and know that is was climbed many times before that. Nov 30, 2010