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Routes in The Solstice

A Fall From Grace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Kings Horses S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
April Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Behind The Beige Vinyl Curtain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast of the Damned S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Catch 22 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chertin for Certain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimes of Passion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Curmudgeons S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
EveĀ’'s Testicle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fornification of Kings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Least I Could Do, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quaker Oats S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Token of Affection S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Torsades de Pointes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tricksy Hobbits S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vampires S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Todd Goss, Jerry Howard
Page Views: 1,289 total · 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A wonderfully long, exciting line. Travel upwards on the ever-present reddish-brown, sculpted chert features. Occasionally the chert edges get thinner here and there; in the nick of time, a single-finger pocket or two appears.

Approximately three-fourths of the way up a slightly overhanging bulge bars the way. Surmount this using big, rough, irregular knobs and good feet, plus a pocket or two.

Use a 70m rope, a 60m won't be quite long enough to lower all the way.

Location [Suggest Change]

Right-most of 3 bolted lines which are all located to the left of a rounded, vertical trough with a curving, overhanging feature part way up the trough. There is a light-colored, oblong area about twenty feet up in the middle of the three routes.

Protection [Suggest Change]

14 bolts (the guidebook says 13—it's wrong) and Metolius rap anchors.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
Correct on count 14 bolts plus anchors although you can reach the last bolt from the anchors. Lowering on our 60m made it just barely.

The 10b (Vampires) two to the left and the 10c in between are also great routes. Both full 100 footers and pretty sustained.

The two 3 star 10a's an the far left are not that great - easy climbs with short cruxes. Nov 16, 2009

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