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Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 1 from 1
FA: David Mealey and Matt Vanosdell
> Southeast Utah
> River Rd
> Anasazi Buttress
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1-Begin on the right side(down steam) of the large alcove. Climb to the back of the alcove, then traverse left until you are forced down to a lower ledge.(We lowered off a bush to get down. continue to the left side of the alcove where there is one bolt. P2-Follow the obvious dihedral via aid to a two bolt belay(A2) P3-Begin by lowering out about 10' and then pendulum over to the black varnished open book dihedral.Follow until it rounds a corner and ends at a hanging belay.(A2+) P4-Lower out about 30' and then pendulum over to a hand crack that climbs to a large ledge near the top of the wall.(5.10)
The route is located down stream from artist tears about 300'. It climbs to the left of the largest alcove on the wall. Rappel from the bolted anchor on the down steam end of the summit ledge to the top of pitch two then to the ground.
Bring a double set of cams from your smallest size to fist sizes, a variety of angles, and a couple of toucans came in handy.