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Routes in Anasazi Buttress

Artist Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3
Foam Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Navajo Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Seam Crack A3-4 R
Shere Khan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
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Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: David Mealey and Matt Vanosdell
Page Views: 419 total · 4/month
Shared By: David Mealey on Feb 14, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

P1-Begin on the right side(down steam) of the large alcove. Climb to the back of the alcove, then traverse left until you are forced down to a lower ledge.(We lowered off a bush to get down. continue to the left side of the alcove where there is one bolt.
P2-Follow the obvious dihedral via aid to a two bolt belay(A2)
P3-Begin by lowering out about 10' and then pendulum over to the black varnished open book dihedral.Follow until it rounds a corner and ends at a hanging belay.(A2+)
P4-Lower out about 30' and then pendulum over to a hand crack that climbs to a large ledge near the top of the wall.(5.10)

Location [Edit]

The route is located down stream from artist tears about 300'. It climbs to the left of the largest alcove on the wall. Rappel from the bolted anchor on the down steam end of the summit ledge to the top of pitch two then to the ground.

Protection [Edit]

Bring a double set of cams from your smallest size to fist sizes, a variety of angles, and a couple of toucans came in handy.

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