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Routes in The Moonstone

36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonscape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweetwater Moose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Wind Walker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2007/08
Page Views: 1,074 total · 9/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Feb 13, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Sticky situation Details


Involves 2-60m pitches. 60m ropes are required. The crux of the first pitch is on the first steep section: thin face and smearing but very well protected. At the top of this first section, move right into a broad trough (two single runners useful) and up to the anchor.
The original second pitch goes up the deep trough above. This is about 5.8 and is good.
A more aesthetic and challenging second pitch, completed in Spr 2008, is to go to the first bolt on the second pitch, then friction up and left into the very shallow, steep looking trough out there. Climb through two or three 10a sections of smearing and thin face to the anchor. This pitch, having a separate history and psyche, is called The Shape of Our Deformity and is rated 10a.
The combination of the first pitch of Floating World (10b) and the Shape of Our Deformity (10a) makes for an outstanding climb and the hardest on the Moonstone to this date.


As you arrive at Moonstone, there is an open area to the right. A beautiful, steeper wall is defined between a long left facing corner on the right edge (Where Across the Globe begins) and a long right leaning crack system on it's left.
Park and walk up to the base (30 secs) of the steep lower part of this wall, capped by a long narrow roof. Floating World starts in some aspens near the right end of this wall. Many bolts leading straight up the face define the start of the route.


Bolts (3/8" Fixx), about 17 clips, one or two as single length runners. Fixx ring anchors on all pitches: need two 60m ropes to descend.


bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
Watkins and I did what I think is probably only the second ascent of the alternate second pitch, The Shape of Our Deformity on 11/5/16. Still think it's 10a and what a great pitch, if I say so myself. 2-3 sections of 9+/10a up there...mainly smearing, not much edging.

We did the first pitch of Floating World+The Shape of our Deformity...makes for two pretty stout pitches and probably the hardest route still on this face of Moonstone. Still think the first pitch is 10b. Managed to rp both pitches so I'm feeling pretty good about the old guy today. Nov 7, 2016

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