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Routes in East Wall Trail

Beautiful Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bin Leadin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blue Pill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Hazel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
First Degree , The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mechanical Advantage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dutch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pill T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skinny Fingers T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wildcat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Shaun Neufeld et al. circa 1996
Page Views: 1,318 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dru on Feb 11, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Climb easily up the wide crack forming the left side of the detached flake until standing on the sharp pointy tip. Protect the next moves well to avoid impalement on the sharp flake if you muff the crux!

Climb the finger crack above the sharktooth, cruxy at first then widening and easing off with some footholds out on the face to the right and a small flake roof. End on a ledge with a pair of rap hangers.

Location

Follow the trail to the base of the crag and head east (right) along the base of the wall for 5 minutes or so to an obvious detached sharp-tipped flake sitting against the cliff.

Protection

Finger to hand size pro with 1 or 2 larger pieces for the flake.

Photos

Dru
 
Dru  
 
THE FLAKE FELL OFF!

A chunk cracked off in spring 2017. The windstorm in October 2017 must have flexed the tree enough to pop off the remaining flake. Both flake and tree are now lying on the ground at the base. Shaun Neufeld and Max de Jong re-established the climb up the scar left by the flake. Definitely 10+ climbing now. A small blue cam in a wide pocket on the right of the corner provides protection through the crux moves now. Please don't add a bolt here. Nov 1, 2017
Dru
 
Dru  
 
The most common start these days is up the right hand side of the flake via some thin underclinging (originally cleaned climbed by M-A Leclerc) and then stepping across to the shark tooth at the tree. Nov 10, 2010