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Routes in Mosquito Coast

Ant Line T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Antline Boulder Problem TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V4 6B
Boot Licker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fly the Friendly Skies TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hanging Garden T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangtown T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hermit Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Mustard T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Octopus' Gardens T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scratchin' for Gold T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sluice Box TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight Lines T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Susan Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Twist and Shout T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Water Traverse V5 6C
bouldering circuit T V2 5+
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Don Garrett 1978 or 79
Page Views: 361 total, 3/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Two ways to start: can sit start in the cave and V2 it out to the chockstone (big stemming), or work the feet up the crack just left of the bottom of the cave till you can reach onto the chockstone and pull into it. Then, brutal jamming to a cave, then over the roof to the top.

Location

About 25 feet right of Twist and Shout, is the Susan Forever Cave. Object is to get to the chockstone on the lip of the cave and then thrash your way straight to the top.

Protection

cams to 4 or 5"

Photos

Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.11b
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.11b
Thrashing isn't going to help you get to the top of this one. Tricky-sized crack requires an array of jamming techniques and thoughtful foot placements. Be ready for rain when climbing through the upper roof...it's dirty. Great climb. Aug 28, 2013