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Routes in Weathertop

El Nino T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eye of the Storm S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galadriel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gale Force T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incredible Huck S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Millertime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nancy Boy's Nightmare T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nancy's Wet Dream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perfect Storm S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shin Pfein T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Storm Front S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under The Weather T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weathering The Storm S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wilard Scott's Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Will It Or Won't It? S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Dean Brault, Jim Scott
Page Views: 644 total, 6/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on Feb 7, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Start following a faint crack system. There is limited but sufficient pro. Turn the roof crux, which is bolt protected. Follow a few more bolts to a slanting chimney like feature. Get out of that and clip one more bolt before the anchors. The route is about half protected by bolts and is mostly easier than 11-. It is long and nice to do if in the area.

Location

This route starts about 50 feet to the left of Under the Weather, the huge corner. There are several huge boulders. Start on the rightmost one under a faint crack system. You will see one bolt right over the roof. Go for that. There is a bolted route to the right.

Protection

Light rack no larger than #2 camalot and a few draws. There are 4 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Belay the second from above and walk off or rap down with 2 ropes and collect the draws later.

Photos

Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
I believe this is incorrectly labeled as a bolts only route in SQL3, probably want some gear for this one. Jan 8, 2017
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
a really fun line. technical moves and just enough gear to keep it safe without making it a cakewalk. Dec 18, 2010
There is now a set of anchors at 35 meters so you can hit the ground if you lower off with a 70M rope. Or you can still take it to the top and walk down. Apr 4, 2010