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Routes in North Face / North End

Anaconda T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inferno, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3
North End Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ryan's Inferno S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Triple Exposure T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C1
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: FFA: Nathanael Hansen, 2008
Page Views: 2,333 total, 22/month
Shared By: Nathanael Hansen on Feb 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

All of the rock at the bottom of the climb is rotten, so you need to scamper up the ramp to the base of the rock face. (That said, with good luck, the lower section might clean up and yield something climbable....)

Follow the two bolts left to a big move to the sloping ledge. Traverse right until you can stand up and clip from a bucket. From there on, stay in the crack until you reach the anchors just under the roof.

As well as a lower start, this climb could also have potential to be continued from the first anchor, Triple Exposure-style.
Ryan's Inferno needs more ascents to consolidate the grade as the first ascensionist doesn't have a clue.

Location

This is the free variation to the first pitch of the aid line, Inferno. It is located between Triple Exposure and Anaconda on the North end of North Gateway. Both climb the ramp to the base of the face, but Ryan's Inferno follows the line of bolts to the left where the aid line goes right. The lines meet up about halfway up the pitch before continuing to the anchors.

Protection

The bolts (5) and drilled pin are adequate for the send, but there are multiple places for pro. The anchor consists of 3 drilled pins, webbing and rap rings.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Nice send! Jun 1, 2009