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Routes in Cascade Falls - Left

Crimson Cringe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Filthy Rich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fish Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Press T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jug Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mud Shark T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Ray Jardine & John Lakey, April 1976
Page Views: 5,418 total, 50/month
Shared By: Brad G on Feb 4, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


A super clean and long splitter on the right side of the Cascade Falls Area (its hard to miss). It starts and ends with interesting knob climbing up a steep face. Start by climbing up a ramp then traversing right across the knobs passing a bolt to the beginning of the crack. Fingers in the beggining, stacks in the middle then lieback/underclinging up higher. Lower off the bolts.

Another classic crack climb along the 140! If you want more climbing but no walking do Fish Crack as well, the finger crack just to the left. Have fun!


The obvious splitter seen from the lower cascade parking area


doubles in .3 to .5
triples in .75 to 1
two #2's
one #3 and #4
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
Much harder (and steeper) than Fish Crack! Long, pumpy, and sustained- reminded me of the Enduro Corner on Astroman: Tight/thin hands with the occasional bomber hand jam. Great climb with a burly and incredible finish. Jul 17, 2016
relentless! Oct 16, 2015
Wasn't this graded 12a? But, I suppose Fish Crack felt about the same difficulty to me. Great route. Aug 25, 2015
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
the length of the route is about 175 ft, not sure if two 50m will make to the ground, probably with some stretch Nov 5, 2012
Brad G
Brad G  
You can rap to the anchors for fish crack then rap to ground from there Dec 22, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
By the way, that lower-off is 50 meters! (Yosemite Free Climbs, Don Reid, 1994). Oct 23, 2009