Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,858 total · 15/month
Shared By: SAL on Feb 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


Start on the loaf pinch down low. Fire up and out of the overhange. For some a knee bar is clutch.


This is on the West face of the Mongoose Boulder.


One pad.


Patrick Manitou
Atlanta, GAAAAA
Patrick Manitou   Atlanta, GAAAAA
Is this the same problem that's also posted as "Mongoose Block West Overhang"? Check out the description I posted over on that problem. They start in the same place for sure. I've never been sure about the grade on that one, I put it up here as a V2, but it could be harder. I only chose V2, because that's what I remember from when I first started climbing at the pit more than a decade ago... my memory sucks though, and part of the problem is that I can't figure out how to rate the problem since I've been climbing it for so long. Feb 5, 2009
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
There are many eliminates for these problems. I have been climbing on this since the early '90s, and just like the Black Hole in Morrison, there are many ways to contrive. Versions up to V8 from the same start pinches have been done.

An example of a standard V4 is as follows:

Start on both vertical pinches, bump left to smaller pinch sidepull, move right to a gaston, up and right, hit left hand in the cluster of pockets, fire up left to a crimp, right to jug and finish straight on edges or move right and finish into the prow. Dec 16, 2013