Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hoodgie Wall

Ankles Away S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Block TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face Hueco TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escuche Vaca Heard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Holy Shiite, Muslim! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoodgie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leonosphere S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NorthEast Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown, or R. Behrens 1-30-2009 solo
Page Views: 450 total, 4/month
Shared By: munge on Feb 2, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start immedialetly left of Leonosphere by laybacking to the left a short flake. This opening move is the physical crux. Trend slightly left and up to the left side of the horizontal crack that can take a cam. From there up and left slightly and follow the blunted arete to the top.

Location

Hoodgie Wall. Descend anchors on Leonosphere.

Protection

Pro to 3" - could use bolts above as it is a nice line. Not sure if it's been solo'd by the east side folks already, but if not, might be a nice addition. No objection from me. Squeezy at the bottom. Better to start in the left crack maybe with more gear options or make that a separate line altogether?

Photos

- No Photos -
kenr  
See routes photo.

That initial sequence on the left-trending flake is not only strenuous but a bit awkward. Much harder than the rest of the (more fun) climbing above.

We set up a Top-Rope on this route by using the two-bolt anchor for Leonosphere with a directional sling around a small horn along the ridge crest about twelve feet east from that anchor - (and also used that anchor with directional setup to Top-Rope three other routes to the left of this one).

A climber on Top-Rope who wants to enjoy the easier fun stuff above, without first struggling through the difficult start, might first climb Leonosphere then get lowered down into this route, but stop the lowering about eight feet above the ground. Jan 17, 2016
munge
 
munge  
 
worth adding some lead bolts? Jan 19, 2015
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
this line looks pretty good. looks like ok gear at the beginning crack and a nice horn up above about 20ft and maybe small horns after that up the arĂȘte. Oct 25, 2014
munge
 
munge  
 
Wanted to get some input first and then got sick that weekend too. :( Given how old of an area Ahills are, it's possible it's been sent before just no one bothered to report it. There are more possibilities in that area too. The crack left of the where I started Escuche would really be the direct line, or could have a finish slightly left of where I finished. Feb 13, 2009
I remember looking at this line, thinking "why hasn't someone put something up there?

Now they have.

Sweet!

Surprised you didn't bolt it. Maybe I will, depending on what we hear about it.

Brutus Feb 4, 2009