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Head Case

5.10b/c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 10 votes
FA: Barney, solo, 90's
Nevada > Western Nevada > Reno Area > River Rock > Main Wall

Description

The physical crux is right at the first bolt. The mental crux is getting to the fourth bolt. Feels really airy. Don't go straight for the fourth bolt, but head left then up.

At the bulge by the fourth bolt, be careful. Up untill this point the rock is high quality. It's a little chossy through here, nocked a block off with my foot once. Belayer should be careful.

Location

To the right of all existing climbs at River Rock. You have to scramble all the way to right of the entire face, then walk back left on the ledge. Belay from the ledge.

Protection

4 bolts on face, plus 2 bolts at top of route. Mussy Hook Carabiners for chains.

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The Route
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Fun climb - feels somewhere in the 5.10+ range. A little airy around the forth bolt Mar 2, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] A fun shorty, although pretty easy for the given grade. As a comparison, I found no move to be harder than what's on Africa Flake.

For loose rock, there is definitely some remaining. The climb seemed pretty clean, but the whole lower off has pebbles to medium rocks flaking off. May 1, 2011