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Routes in Center Buttress

Big Jugs T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edge of Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sentinel Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,243 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Jan 26, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the right-facing crack around an over-hang. Seems like the hard move is getting started. Wander up following a crack system then right around a roof then back left to a tree ledge. Belay. Climb a chimney or a number of easy variations to the "Crow's Nest."

Location

To the right of Sentinel Buttress. Look for the nice looking crack with an overhang on the toe of the buttress. Just to the left of a cave.

Protection

NC rack. 60m rope. Rap from atop the "Crow's Nest."

Photos

ABG
Winston-Salem, NC
ABG   Winston-Salem, NC
There is no way this is a V3. Especially when comparing this to the V3s in the boulderfield. Hard 5.9 moves lead to easier climbing. Backing off is quite easy. Oct 11, 2016
Thumer
SLC, UT
Thumer   SLC, UT
I am going to be climbing here next month and was thinking about trying this route. Crushin' Prussian said the start was like V3 boulder problem, the route was originally graded 5.8, and the consensus is -5.9. V3 is usually about +5.11. I understand routes are sometimes sand bagged, but really 3.5 number grades difference? Should I really expect a V3 crux? Oct 11, 2016
Emil Briggs
  5.9
Emil Briggs  
  5.9
This route has been the site of more than one mini-epic when the second was unable to pull the roof. If you have any doubts you might want to setup a cheater sling for them since otherwise getting your gear back off the route is a PITA. Oct 17, 2013
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
The start is the hardest part, very much like a V3 boulder move. Sep 1, 2013
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.8
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.8
I think Super DIrect just feels hard because you could hit the ground if you blow the crux. If the moves were 50 feet up a clean face it would probably feel about has hard as Air Show, which also gets 8+. May 8, 2012
sanz
Raleigh, NC
  5.9+
sanz   Raleigh, NC
  5.9+
This felt 10 times harder than Airshow to me, but maybe I just suck at overhanging finger cracks. May 4, 2012
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.8
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.8
That sounds about right sanz. 5.8 at Moore's is usually fairly hard. Have you done Airshow yet? Apr 16, 2012
sanz
Raleigh, NC
  5.9+
sanz   Raleigh, NC
  5.9+
I have no idea if we did the right start to this, or the right line at all for that matter. We started up a steep finger crack with a couple of roofs, which was hard enough to make the 5.8 rating seem like a joke. Bomber nuts abound but I had real issues with the rope getting stuck in the crack. It made me cringe to abandon these nut placements for less elegant cams outside of the main crack, but drag became infinitely better once I did. After the initial crank, the rest of the climb is a routefinding adventure. Apr 16, 2012
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.9+
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.9+
Opening is indeed the business - getting around to/up and over the roof. Mercifully it protects well with small .3/.4? BD cams and a bomber nut protects the pull over move (if you can hang on to plug it in!). From there it's fairly casual by comparison. Traverses pretty far left to the chimney when you reach the top of the main crack.

The second pitch has it's moments, and there are several lines possible. The most enjoyable that I've found is to go straight up the overhanging bit after the crappy chimney. It's pretty easy but is quite exposed for the grade - maybe 5.5? Sort of Gunks-esque. Nov 20, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9+
The first pitch is great; the opening moves are hard and non-intuitive. I think the old Kelley guide's rating of 5.9 is right on.

I thought P2 was pretty crappy by comparison with the first pitch. The so-called "chimney" described in the Select guide is actually a wide crack choked with vegetation, which my partner and I avoided entirely. Jul 6, 2009