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Routes in Alcohol Wall South

Another Round S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barfly Blues S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blitzed S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brown Baggin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climbing While Intoxicated S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Shorty S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
London Fog S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Meat Market S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Plate Techtonics S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Power Play S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Public Intoxication T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spinal Spasms T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Twisted S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 619 total, 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 25, 2009 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up to a high first bolt in the middle of the face, I did not find any gear before the bolt. After the bolt move up on some right facing holds to a slanting pocket/slot feature that will take a cam in the best part, so don't pace it untill your ready to move on. Make some interesting moves up to good holds at lip of a small bulge and the second bolt. More difficult moves gets your feet up and over the bulge. Follow a seam feature up that takes a stopper in a place or two. Higher you can get a cam in a V-notch on your way to the anchor.

Location

The route up the center of the left most wall at Alcohol South.

Protection

The climb is now fully bolted. However the original two bolts are still original. The one at the crux (4th) looks quite rusty but it is 3/8". Chain anchor.

Photos

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Bob Graham
  5.10+
Bob Graham  
  5.10+
I agree with Lee no gear before first bolt worth using anyways, although one of the pockets might take a tricam if you think to bring some. I enjoyed the climbing though, pretty interesting moves. Nov 13, 2010