Type: TR, Boulder, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,256 total · 9/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Jan 25, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

I'm not sure if this route knocks Rock Till You Drop off it's throne as the best route at Juliette but I do think it's a bit harder. It is more overhung than RTYD and the crux is tougher. It is definitely more dangerous though. It is pretty well overhung and a fall from the crux puts your back and neck right over a long, sharp rock at the bottom. It needs to be protected with two to three pads at least. This route works the far left edge of the rock. It skirts right over the top of the blank roof underneath and then a massive jug leads you up and over the point. the crux is about the third move and it's really about getting your feet in the right position to go for the jug.

Location

It starts on the far left of the main overhang. If you go past the obvious separation then you've gone to far. You start with the small slanted ledge and a sloper around the left side into a heal hook. Then up, right and over the point.

Protection

Top rope or two to three crash pads. At least two spotters would be a good idea. The fall is really bad on to a sharp spine of a rock.

Photos