Type: | TR, Boulder, 18 ft |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 939 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Davis13au on Jan 25, 2009 |
Admins: | saxfiend |
Description
I'm not sure if this route knocks Rock Till You Drop off it's throne as the best route at Juliette but I do think it's a bit harder. It is more overhung than RTYD and the crux is tougher. It is definitely more dangerous though. It is pretty well overhung and a fall from the crux puts your back and neck right over a long, sharp rock at the bottom. It needs to be protected with two to three pads at least. This route works the far left edge of the rock. It skirts right over the top of the blank roof underneath and then a massive jug leads you up and over the point. the crux is about the third move and it's really about getting your feet in the right position to go for the jug.
crauschville
If it is 5.10a, then it's a V0... Jul 2, 2009
Thanks for the info. Jul 8, 2009
I can't see another route in there but maybe a "V14" type could see some possibilities. Oct 3, 2013
I have established a problem between the two and called it Doctor Hopper. I think it is at least V6 maybe harder, but nobody else has climbed it yet to help me give it an accurate grade. It starts on an under-cling at head height (about 6 feet) and jumps to the crimp rail straight up.
I am also working on a lower start but it is significantly more difficult. If you have a chance to try it please do so. I would like to get more opinions on the grade of Doctor Hopper! Apr 5, 2016
I've been looking at that blank section also and have been trying to figure out something but it has not gotten far. But i'm also working on incorporating the upper portion of that section into Doctor Hopper by traversing left after the crimp rail before moving up. Once i complete that it should make Doctor Hopper a more sustained problem rather than a one move wonder.
I like your idea of a high traverse, and will give it a try next time i am out there! Next time you're in the area and plan to go out there let me know and i'll try to get out there also. It would be cool to put a few of our ideas together. Apr 7, 2016