Type: TR, Boulder, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 969 total · 8/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Jan 25, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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I'm not sure if this route knocks Rock Till You Drop off it's throne as the best route at Juliette but I do think it's a bit harder. It is more overhung than RTYD and the crux is tougher. It is definitely more dangerous though. It is pretty well overhung and a fall from the crux puts your back and neck right over a long, sharp rock at the bottom. It needs to be protected with two to three pads at least. This route works the far left edge of the rock. It skirts right over the top of the blank roof underneath and then a massive jug leads you up and over the point. the crux is about the third move and it's really about getting your feet in the right position to go for the jug.


It starts on the far left of the main overhang. If you go past the obvious separation then you've gone to far. You start with the small slanted ledge and a sloper around the left side into a heal hook. Then up, right and over the point.


Top rope or two to three crash pads. At least two spotters would be a good idea. The fall is really bad on to a sharp spine of a rock.


half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Don't know if you're aware, but V6 does not translate to 5.10a, V6 translates to 5.12d...

If it is 5.10a, then it's a V0... Jul 2, 2009
Yeah, I've come to understand this. I'll stand by the V6. I can't see it being called a V0. Though I'm no expert at all. Initially I wasn't sure how to rate it on top rope because it's only 18ft. The moves/holds themselves are at least 5.13 in my book but since it's so short I called it 5.10. In the end it's probably not worth giving it a 5. rating of any kind and just stick with the bouldering grade. It would be nice if someone else climbed this and other routes at Juliette and gave some feedback. Very few people climb here though (I only know of one other group).

Thanks for the info. Jul 8, 2009
this problem is v4, two hardish moves near the start, jugs all the way tp the top after Dec 7, 2010
Hey Hank. Good to see you climbed out there again. I agree it's probably short of V6. The first few moves are the crux. Falling from the jugs would really suck though. I hadn't really bouldered much when we first started putting up these few routes. I'd like to see the consensus bring them all to where they should be but enough people will probably never climb there. I may just change it. I haven't climbed there in well over a year (live in Virginia now). I'd like to come back and see what I think about it now. Dec 10, 2010
Has anyone tried going straight up the middle? Looks like it could be real hard but not sure how wide it is. Sep 24, 2013
It's a large chunk of rock and there is plenty of room between this one and Rock Till You Drop but there are virtually no options for holds in the "middle". There are a few micro ledges and a small seam for fingertips up higher but that's about it. Once you get to the top jugs appear all over the place.

I can't see another route in there but maybe a "V14" type could see some possibilities. Oct 3, 2013
Hey Garrett & Davis - just wanted to give yall an update because i just saw your comments about a line in between this problem and Rock Till You Drop.

I have established a problem between the two and called it Doctor Hopper. I think it is at least V6 maybe harder, but nobody else has climbed it yet to help me give it an accurate grade. It starts on an under-cling at head height (about 6 feet) and jumps to the crimp rail straight up.

I am also working on a lower start but it is significantly more difficult. If you have a chance to try it please do so. I would like to get more opinions on the grade of Doctor Hopper! Apr 5, 2016
Hi Clint - Glad to see you are pushing the creativity at Juliette. I know the under cling and the small rail your are talking about. I've used Rock Till You Drop to gain that small rail and then go straight up (left of RTYD). I'm certainly no grade expert. Everything feels like v-impossible the first time I try it. I'd say that the upper portion of your route is probably not V6 but that under cling start might earn it. I've messed around with that in the past and it is difficult for sure and you are right, starting lower would be way harder. Even a true sit start to RTYD would be a tough task. I think you have a solid route in Juliette fashion with Doctor Hopper. There is an even blanker section to the left of your route (and before you get to the edge that is Get Your Rocks Off) that has a small seam and a tiny pocket above head height. The trouble is, how do you get there? It's way beyond my ability. I've also considered a high ball traverse on this route but have never completed it (scared). Start on the far right, gain Check my Footwork and go up, traverse the juggy ledge of RTYD, and now Doctor Hopper, over to Get Your Rocks Off and then down climb (or reverse). Apr 6, 2016
Hey Davis - Thanks for your input! I agree the upper portion of Doctor Hopper is pretty easy, probably only a v2 at most but the lower portion is the crux. i think v6 is correct considering the crux but I am no expert either.

I've been looking at that blank section also and have been trying to figure out something but it has not gotten far. But i'm also working on incorporating the upper portion of that section into Doctor Hopper by traversing left after the crimp rail before moving up. Once i complete that it should make Doctor Hopper a more sustained problem rather than a one move wonder.

I like your idea of a high traverse, and will give it a try next time i am out there! Next time you're in the area and plan to go out there let me know and i'll try to get out there also. It would be cool to put a few of our ideas together. Apr 7, 2016