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Routes in Pillar of Despair

Drugged and Driving S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jutte V-easy 3
War Machine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 1,182 total · 11/month
Shared By: 72HW Holly on Jan 25, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Technical and pumpy five bolt route following obvious features up the 30 foot face. Looks a hell of a lot easier than it is.

Location

Center of the west face and the first obvious line you see as you walk into the Cemetery area.

Protection

5 bolts (homemade hangers), chain anchors

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
I didn't feel the need for any dynos, but the climb did require some intense footwork - very enjoyable once you can figure out the moves. The lower part will make your fingers hurt! I'm only 5'8", so your beta may differ from mine... Sep 12, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Thin technical face moves down low to a long reach/dyno for a sidepull at the 3rd bolt and another long reach/dyno at the 4th bolt for a jug to an easy mantle move below the anchors. Technical, tricky and stout for the grade, this one packs a lot of climbing into a short package. This is one of those routes that could feel easier if tall. Jan 11, 2010