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All Locations > California > High Desert > Apple Valley Crags > Horsemen's Center > The Cemetery > Pillar of Despair

War Machine

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British


 Avg: 3 from 15 votes

Routes in Pillar of Despair

Drugged and Driving S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jutte V-easy 3
War Machine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 1,228 total · 10/month
Shared By: 72HW Holly on Jan 25, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Technical and pumpy five bolt route following obvious features up the 30 foot face. Looks a hell of a lot easier than it is.

Location

Center of the west face and the first obvious line you see as you walk into the Cemetery area.

Protection

5 bolts (homemade hangers), chain anchors

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Photos

Photo/topo for the Pillar of Despair, Horseman's Center
Photo/topo for the Pillar of Despair, Horseman'…
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Zach and Shannon doing their thing on War Machine.
Zach and Shannon doing their thing on War Machine.
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2 Comments

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C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Thin technical face moves down low to a long reach/dyno for a sidepull at the 3rd bolt and another long reach/dyno at the 4th bolt for a jug to an easy mantle move below the anchors. Technical, tricky and stout for the grade, this one packs a lot of climbing into a short package. This is one of those routes that could feel easier if tall. Jan 11, 2010
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
I didn't feel the need for any dynos, but the climb did require some intense footwork - very enjoyable once you can figure out the moves. The lower part will make your fingers hurt! I'm only 5'8", so your beta may differ from mine... Sep 12, 2011

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