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Routes in Abraxas Wall

Abraxes Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abraxes Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abraxes Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Krack Kokane T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Krack Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Navajo Warrior T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sugar Kane T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xylokane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Baird and Roady(Steve?)
Page Views: 2,962 total, 28/month
Shared By: David Mealey on Jan 23, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I don't know the tower or route name for sure but it is a nice, casual route with short drive and a short hike
The tower barely sits off the wall and has a bird beak like summit
If you are looking at the tower from the front of the prow the route starts to the right(roadside).
Climb a varied hand crack to a large ledge.Build a belay here. Then climb easy wide crack into the chimney behind the tower. Follow chimney to the summit putting protection in a finger crack inside the chimney.

Location

Climb the route from the road side of the tower and rap from summit bolts to the ground on the other side of the tower.

Protection

Bring your standard rack. You will need fingers to 4 camalot sizes. There are two bolts at the top of the tower
Samuel Andree
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Samuel Andree   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
What an excellent route! Doing it in two pitches is the way to go, as long as you manage your rope at the start of P2. Replaced the tat with a cordellette on 10.29.17 Oct 31, 2017
Sarah Schlaefke
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Sarah Schlaefke   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
The second pitch of this think starts on that forward facing crack above a chossy ledge and levels out before you take a left into a thigh-wide offwidth before you go up to reach the chalkstones.
Last I was up there, Oct 2017, the anchor before the third pitch was a few yellow cordalette strands and webbing that seemed to be in pretty good condition.
The final rap anchor looks like it was just recently reinforced by a new BD sling, but what it is reinforcing seems that it will give soon. There are no rings on the bolts, so that might be a worthy replacement for the next time it needs to be replaced.
Protection is as already listed, but sparse on the 2nd pitch offwidth part. I think it's on the side of a 5.10. Oct 16, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Cool tower. It is three pitches however. 1st pitch takes you past a bolted anchor and on to a ledge where you can walk about 10 meters to reach an awesome crack to build your anchor. You can shove in #1s and a really tight #2. The second pitch continues up the crack you built your anchor in. All you need for this pitch is a .4,.5, 2, and 3. Belay from the chockstones that seem solid. Then chimney your way up past a gorgeous finger and thin hands crack. If you wanted to see it up I would suggest bringing 2 #0 metolius, 2 #1 metolius, and 3 .5 black diamond. Otherwise a single set of cams to #1 bd will keep you going. Anchor at the top looked great. This climb is in the shade. Nov 27, 2016
During the first ascent we climbed it from the other side (the side you rap from). 1st pitch is a changing crack just below the tower chimney 5.10 Feb 15, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
No need for the #4 camalot. Mar 23, 2015
Bring two 60m ropes for the rappel and watch the rope ends. Even with two 60s, there's just inches to spare! Mar 26, 2014
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Is this the route on the right side of the wall with an anchor up on the ledge? If so the first pitch is a nice 5.9 cragging pitch in its own right. Mar 9, 2011