Type: Sport, 37 ft
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 803 total · 7/month
Shared By: John Ross on Jan 23, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

One bolt variation to Back in the Saddle, originally created to be an easier start but ended up being slightly harder. The crux is the first few moves. Match on the starting hold, reach for a left-hand crimp, then a right-hand slanting rail. A couple more crimpers, then get your feet set and throw high to a jug. The angle then eases a little but save some gas for the finish.

Location

Fourth route from the left on Super Bowl Wall. Starts left of Back in the Saddle and joins it at the second bolt.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt helps protect a fall off of the belay ledge.

Photos

This is a really fun warmup. Do that mungy .9 to the left and then this one before moving to the steeper stuff. No throwing necessary if you lock off low on the jugs and hike your feet first. Dec 19, 2009
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
 
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
 
Personally thought this was easier than the .10d start to the right. Though maybe that's just because the .10d is more cryptic as I never could figure out the moves to get off the ground for that one Sep 14, 2018