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Routes in Hot Spot Area

A Quark for Quayle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack & Face Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crowbar Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Reckoning S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Disappearing Man S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Five to One S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
For Love of Mother Not T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Shut Route, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honed to the Bone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mechanically Inept T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine To Five S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shut Down, Plugged Up, and Cold to Boot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
WideSpread Shelfishness S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World Through a Bottle, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 763 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jan 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This short climb packs a lot of fun into a little package. Except for the scramble at the bottom, the climbing is varied, sustained, and clean. Stem up the dihedral and follow the steep crack to the anchor.

Location

This climb is to the left of Day of Reckoning and isn't hard to spot. It's a very inviting looking line.

Protection

Natural gear with bolted anchor. A couple small nuts protect the dihedral (I used a tiny cam to oppose the first nut, so it wouldn't zipper, since the belayer is kind of far back), then a couple cams for the crack (#2 Friend-ish).

Photos

aSteel
 
aSteel  
 
The pro got better on this route in the last month. Not sure why. Now takes a solid #4 DMM offset nut before the #2 DMM offset nut (also solid). Actually, you have choices for pro now, which is different. Gold Lowe-ball works great, and a blue/yellow Mastercam at the bottom and again at the top of the thin section are solid. I also enjoy a #5 right before the mantle, but maybe I'm just justifying the purchase.... 0.75, 1, and 2 for the final section are all great and protect even the most conservative climbers well. Jan 12, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10- PG13
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10- PG13
The chalked up chockstone-like holds down at the lower crux came out today, perhaps loosened by the rain. It still goes. A red Loweball was nice at the lower crux. This sews up pretty well, except for the lower crux. Sep 18, 2013

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