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Love Shack

5.12b V5+, Sport, Boulder,  Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
FA: Paul Clark, Jeff Jackson
Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch > World's Greatest Boulder

Description

Crux is right at the start on a one finger hold, then the holds get better. One of the prettiest boulders I've seen. It's all by itself right on the river.

Location

Sooooper obvious line straight up the middle of the boulder.

Protection

2 bolts, or solo the thing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lucas Traner
El Lago, Tx
[Hide Comment] There is a sit start variation using a hidden hueco down low that adds a few letter grades. Doesn't really add anything fun to the route, jsut mentioning it. Sep 2, 2013
Matt Twyman
Austin, TX —> Fort Collins,…
[Hide Comment] I have a very dear place in my heart for this line, and encourage the sit start. Adds a few more bouldery moves to better round out the whole sequence. yarding off the crimp rail to the mono and then pulling off that definitely adds a level of expectation to your tendons. Definitely better as a boulder problem, but bring a lot of pads. Your topping out over a block. Dec 4, 2014
JLilStar _
the proverbial west
[Hide Comment] Holds have broken on this problem. So sad. The crux is now an incredibly thin pocket pull, thus yielding this problem a double-digit boulder problem that is not fun. Sad to see a classic ruined. Oct 28, 2019
[Hide Comment] Man, I wonder when it broke? I went down there and messed with it about 2 years ago and it seemed impossible so maybe it's been that way for a while? Oct 29, 2019
[Hide Comment] I'm very curious if anyone has done the sit start WITH the now broken off holds. Looks inspiring honestly and would love to come back with more pads or a rope to project it. Nov 25, 2020
Jesse Bruni
Austin
[Hide Comment] Matt and I got on this today, the boulder still definitely goes, it was about V7 from the stand start with the beta I found, I was able to do it from one move in. Then I tried it from the ground, broke a crucial hold, and now it's harder than it was, but still doable. Might still be V7, but a harder 7, idk. Jan 22, 2022