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Routes in The Power Line Buttress

Fuzzy Bunny Crack, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Little Bunny Fu Fu T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screamin Demon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: David Mealey and Aaron Boyles
Page Views: 997 total, 9/month
Shared By: David Mealey on Jan 20, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a classic desert trad route!
Pitch one Climbs a 5.9 off width to a large ledge 100'
Pitch two starts in a squeeze that opens up to a chimney then constricts to a 4 camalot crack, climbs past a ledge through some thin hands a fingers stopping at a bolted anchor. 5.10
Pitch three climbs through big hands in a groove past some large loose blocks and tops out with some fingers.5.10+

There is some choss, but there is a lot of quality rock and climbing on this route.

Location

The route is on the right side of the north face(facing the car park). Just follow the power lines. There is a power pole only 20' from the start of this route

Protection

Take a double set of cams from a #.5 to a #6, a set of stoppers, and some long runners. Rap the route or down climb the short chimney and traverse into the fuzzy bunny route in order to reach the true summit of the buttress. Then you rap the fuzzy bunny route on the river side of the buttress. Three raps to the ground either way you go.

Photos

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