Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | David Mealey and Aaron Boyles |
Page Views: | 1,633 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | David Mealey on Jan 20, 2009 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a classic desert trad route!
Pitch one Climbs a 5.9 off width to a large ledge 100'
Pitch two starts in a squeeze that opens up to a chimney then constricts to a 4 camalot crack, climbs past a ledge through some thin hands a fingers stopping at a bolted anchor. 5.10
Pitch three climbs through big hands in a groove past some large loose blocks and tops out with some fingers.5.10+
There is some choss, but there is a lot of quality rock and climbing on this route.
Pitch one Climbs a 5.9 off width to a large ledge 100'
Pitch two starts in a squeeze that opens up to a chimney then constricts to a 4 camalot crack, climbs past a ledge through some thin hands a fingers stopping at a bolted anchor. 5.10
Pitch three climbs through big hands in a groove past some large loose blocks and tops out with some fingers.5.10+
There is some choss, but there is a lot of quality rock and climbing on this route.
Location
The route is on the right side of the north face(facing the car park). Just follow the power lines. There is a power pole only 20' from the start of this route
Protection
Take a double set of cams from a #.5 to a #6, a set of stoppers, and some long runners. Rap the route or down climb the short chimney and traverse into the fuzzy bunny route in order to reach the true summit of the buttress. Then you rap the fuzzy bunny route on the river side of the buttress. Three raps to the ground either way you go.
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