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Routes in Northside Routes

Blender T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Segundo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Escape Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fun Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lucky Six T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Prima Donna T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Radon Daughters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shackelton's T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trail of The Navajo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Sweet Splitter pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Slansky and David Mealey
Page Views: 1,143 total, 11/month
Shared By: David Mealey on Jan 20, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

pitch one climbs through a bit of loose rock to the base of an off width.
pitch two climbs the 5 inch crack for 50' then follows a low angle ramp into the back of a chimney
pitch three if you're skinny enough squeeze the constriction and chimney climb until you are forced out. climb past a ledge and around the corner to a cam belay.the pitch could be more difficult if you can't squeeze through.
Pitch four and five climb straight up the chimney any way you can.There are a number of wedged boulders to navigate around that have plenty of spots for good pro.

Location

The route is on the north side of the River Road and requires a boat to access. If you stop at mile marker 5 there is a large pull out on the right. Park there and look across and slightly up river.The route is the largest and most obvious dihedral

Protection

Bring a double set from #.5 to #6 friend, a set of stoppers, and many long runners
There are no bolts on this route. For the descent the FA Wrapped from a large bush at the top of the chimney to a large boulder at the top of the first squeeze then to the ground. This route is actually in Arches so drilling is not allowed.

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