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Routes in Storm Mountain Ice Falls

Glass Case of Emotion WI3-4 M4-5
PsychoBabble Gully T WI2
Storm Mountain WI4 PG13
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unk
Page Views: 1,232 total, 11/month
Shared By: notmyname on Jan 17, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is a variation to Storm Mountain Falls after the 2nd pitch. Look for a thin sheet of ice dripping off just to the left of the "catchers mitt" formation, or just to the left of the 5.8 climb "leisure climb".

Pitch 3. From pitch two anchors of storm mtn falls, keep diagonaling left passing a few buldges. M3/4 This puts you above the anchors and overhang for the new 5.8 route, Leisure Climb. Gear anchor. M4

Pitch 4. A very tight and extremely awkward pitch. Drytool into the tight corner/ramp with the obvious ice flow (that forms the left border of the wildly overhung "catcher's mit" formation). 6" of swing clearance and lots of swearing on thin delaminating ice gets you out of the squeezebox and into a tight mixed ice choked corner. Belay from the chains at the top of the new 5.8 route. WI4 M5

Anyone who's ever done NY gulley in the Cascades will appreciate this variation I'm calling "Glass Case of Emotion" WI4 M5

Location

Start as for any of the variations to storm mtn falls. Climb begins at pitch two anchors

Protection

Small rack of 2 screws, and light rock rack focusing on TCU sizes

Photos

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