PRINT: Rock Climb Tomato Amnesia, Red Rocks

Tomato Amnesia

5.9, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.4 from 31 votes
FA: Don Wilson, Karen Wilson, Jack Marshall
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (04) Second Pul… > Great Red Book Area

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Start just left of the mushroom boulder, aiming for a bolt 20' above. Climb up and right, then left to the base of a curving crack. Follow the crack to an anchor, having clipped five bolts getting to and into the crack.
The second pitch follows the crack up the short steep wall, then up the slab to an anchor with chains at a horizontal seam. Another bolt above the belay invites further climbing.... new hardware to us.
There is a fragile flake left of the crack, between the two bolts, that will last as long as no one pulls out on it.
Handren's guide rates the second pitch at 5.5. We thought it significantly harder.

Location

The route is on the wall right of Great Red Book. There are bolts all over the place, but you are left of the mushroom and some small scrub oaks.

Protection

Stoppers, tcu's, and small cams to #1 Cam. 5 bolts first pitch, 2 on second.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First belay.

Start of pitch 3 right after pitch 2 anchors. We didn't go up it.

Maurice Horn starting the slab finish of the second pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

5.8

I thought the section at the top of p2 was the crux. We linked the two pitches with a 60m rope but we needed to simulclimb for about the last 20 feet. We did a single rappel of the route with a pair of 60m ropes. Both pitches felt like 5.8 to me. Oct 18, 2012

Manderson198
Chattanooga, TN

5.9

Decent route, with the second pitch having the more enjoyable climbing. First pitch was alright, but the rock quality was less than stellar in many places. First pitch was a 5.9 bolt-clipper; whereas, the second pitch seemed like solid 5.7, with a bit of funk at the top (in a good way). Sep 18, 2015

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

There is a belay after maybe 70' and then a 3RD pitch from there.
P1-P2 can be linked. 60M rope OK to rap with.
P2 eats stoppers, then takes a few small cams. Nov 24, 2017

Christopher Kelly
Colorado Springs, CO

Found pitch 2 to be every bit as hard and much more sustained in the crux sections than pitch 1. Oct 19, 2020

William Thiry
Las Vegas

5.9

Good route - 2.5 stars - better rock quality would make this an excellent 3-star route. Pitch 1 has perhaps one 5.9 move after the first bolt; the rest of the pitch is 5.7 or easier. The last 20 feet of Pitch 2 has several moves at or near 5.9 - a very engaging pitch for the grade. Luckily 2 bolts and a few great cam placements (.5, .75, and #1) present good protection for this section. Oct 19, 2020

Jordan Gay
North Carolina

A mixture of aging hardware (button heads, stardryvin, smc hangers) keeps this from being a repeat for me. That’s unfortunate, because the climbing is fun and spicy with creative pro. The 2nd pitch is definitely 5.9 and fairly sandy! Aug 20, 2021

Anus Herder
Colona, CO

What's up with the 3rd pitch on this? I climbed it with no knowledge and thought it was harder than 5.9 but a doable ending pitch? I think it was 4 bolts to a gear belay up top. Oct 11, 2021