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Erbanay
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Herb North Jr, Ray Ringle, 1980 |
Page Views: | 911 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Jan 16, 2009 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd |
The Forest Service as closed all areas in Mount Lemmon until November 1, 2020 because of recent forest fire activity. Climbing is not permitted at this time.
Description
From the gully walk out a small ledge to a dead tree (jan 09). Climb up the mixed flake/crack with plentiful gear to just under the roof, then traverse left 12' (past a hole with good big stopper and/or smaller full size camming unit) to a belay either below or above the roof. A variation climbs straight off the end of the flake and over the right end of the roof (also 5.8+). Be warned, if you go up 1/2 way through the traverse (above the pro hole), the moves are balancy and steep and could be harder than 5.8+. so the question then begs, go left to get the pro or simply pull straight up over the less than overhanging bulge. With proper runners, the variation from ground to summit can be done with one rope. We belayed above the roof in a 1-1 1/2" crack. There are a pair of older welded cold shuts at the top.
A short 45' rap off the back (2 bolts, chains) or downclimb can be done.
A short 45' rap off the back (2 bolts, chains) or downclimb can be done.
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