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Routes in Balin Wall

Erbanay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Show of Shows T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb North Jr, Ray Ringle, 1980
Page Views: 455 total, 4/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 16, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

From the gully walk out a small ledge to a dead tree (jan 09). Climb up the mixed flake/crack with plentiful gear to just under the roof, then traverse left 12' (past a hole with good big stopper and/or smaller full size camming unit) to a belay either below or above the roof. A variation climbs straight off the end of the flake and over the right end of the roof (also 5.8+). Be warned, if you go up 1/2 way through the traverse (above the pro hole), the moves are balancy and steep and could be harder than 5.8+. so the question then begs, go left to get the pro or simply pull straight up over the less than overhanging bulge. With proper runners, the variation from ground to summit can be done with one rope. We belayed above the roof in a 1-1 1/2" crack. There are a pair of older welded cold shuts at the top.

A short 45' rap off the back (2 bolts, chains) or downclimb can be done.

Location

the first route (right side of 1st wall) down the gully.

Protection

Stoppers or all camming units small to 3" Doubles of tcu's suggested.

Photos

Led Erbanay in one pitch back in 94/95 after 2 failed attempts (involving whippers which resulted in permanent scars). Really hard for 8+. Feb 28, 2011
jbak  
Set the Way-Back machine for 1981... Jan 19, 2009