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Routes in Lower Buttress

Lower Buttress Boulder V5 6C
Over Easy (aka Goldilocks & the 3 Bears) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scrambled (aka Bob's Route) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunny Side Up (aka Photo-Op) S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 50 total, 0/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Jan 16, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Sit start and fire up powerful and thin moves with precise feet on the slightly chalked up face. I still haven't sent so I can't tell you where the crux is.

Alternatively, sit start but use the arete on the left. Downgrades the route to about V1 (which could be good or bad depending on what your up for) but add a star for the cool heelhooking potential.

Location

Short overhanging boulder fifteen feet below and climber's left of the lower buttress.

Protection

pad or just sand works

Photos

- No Photos -
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Doing this the "right" way (ie, finishing at the very top point of the boulder without using either arete) is quite hard, maybe harder than V5. It's also super sharp and generally a terrible problem. But if you're really hard up for bouldering, I guess it's worth doing. Mar 22, 2009