Type: Boulder
FA: Sam Anderson-Mangai
Page Views: 71 total · 1/month
Shared By: Sam Anderson-Mangai on Jan 15, 2009
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You & This Route


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Description

This problem is located in the small cave with the triangular prow at the northen end of the Wave boulder. Sit-start with your left hand on the obvious under-cling and right hand on the big pinch. Set your right foot low in the cave on a good edge and smear your left on the roof of the cave. The crux is pulling on and slapping for the arete/lip with your right hand, aim for the seamingly good crimp just under the lip (its not a useful hold, unless you're Sharma) but over-shoot it and catch the sloping edge of the arete (There is a seam in the sloper that gives it abit more purchase. Double take with your right up the arete to a more positive sloping pinch, engage your core and swing your right foot out of the cave and up onto the arete. Plant your heel on the large quartz bobble (make sure its your shoe and not your fleshy heel that catches this feature cos it will cut you). Adjust your left hand slightly and catch the same under-cling with your left foot, now squeeze! Creep your left hand to the small dish on the left hand arete or the friction dependent sloper above it. Bring your right hand onto the prow joining the two aretes and dyno out left to a psitive side pull, high step with your left and rock over onto the prow, exit up left on the big slab.

Location

This problem is on the Wave boulder at the Jardines. The Wave boulder is up the hill on the left hand side, it is a very visible streaked boulder. It has a few hard classic problems, The Possum V8, Dereks V10, First Blood V9+.

Protection

Pads and Spotter

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