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Routes in Wye Creek

88 Chocolate Treats S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
About Time S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Alien Resurrection T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aratika S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Between the Lines S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bigger than Big S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chimneyphobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Places V8+ 7B+
Don't be Decieved S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dream Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drop Kick to the Head S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drunken Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Belle Vie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Submission S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leap Frog S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Locked In A Basement V9+ 7C
Lucalucki S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Merkava V9 7C
Mission , The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Monsieur Muscle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
More Monkey Business S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Holds Barred S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oh la la! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quest, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raining Body Parts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Curry Pot Climb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruled By Secrecy V9 7C
Short Fat Version, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smellie Crack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
TNT S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Twelve S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Up the Creek S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Boulder
FA: Sam Anderson-Mangai
Page Views: 44 total, 0/month
Shared By: Sam Anderson-Mangai on Jan 15, 2009
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Description

This problem is located in the small cave with the triangular prow at the northen end of the Wave boulder. Sit-start with your left hand on the obvious under-cling and right hand on the big pinch. Set your right foot low in the cave on a good edge and smear your left on the roof of the cave. The crux is pulling on and slapping for the arete/lip with your right hand, aim for the seamingly good crimp just under the lip (its not a useful hold, unless you're Sharma) but over-shoot it and catch the sloping edge of the arete (There is a seam in the sloper that gives it abit more purchase. Double take with your right up the arete to a more positive sloping pinch, engage your core and swing your right foot out of the cave and up onto the arete. Plant your heel on the large quartz bobble (make sure its your shoe and not your fleshy heel that catches this feature cos it will cut you). Adjust your left hand slightly and catch the same under-cling with your left foot, now squeeze! Creep your left hand to the small dish on the left hand arete or the friction dependent sloper above it. Bring your right hand onto the prow joining the two aretes and dyno out left to a psitive side pull, high step with your left and rock over onto the prow, exit up left on the big slab.

Location

This problem is on the Wave boulder at the Jardines. The Wave boulder is up the hill on the left hand side, it is a very visible streaked boulder. It has a few hard classic problems, The Possum V8, Dereks V10, First Blood V9+.

Protection

Pads and Spotter

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