Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,854 total · 15/month
Shared By: Lon Black on Jan 13, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Just a bit left of Swedin-Ringle is a seldom climbed route. The fact that it's rarely climbed isn't because of a lack of quality; it is because it's wide...that's right, we're talking offwidth techniques.

Location

Left of Swedin-Ringle and right of Mystery machine and the unnamed 5.10.

Protection

Up to a #6 Camalot. Be prepared for a little spice. The mental crux of moving out from the chimney onto the face requires a unique placement if you want it: put a knot in a thin dyneema runner, and slide the knot into the flared bottleneck. It's a somewhat blind placement, but it's bomber. Above this, you can place a 0.5 camalot, then 0.75, maybe two #1s. You could place a #2 toward the top if you wanted.

Photos

Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
There's a variation Lisa and I added that goes right into thin, then splitter hands and the other side of the broken pillar forming Sweedin' Ringle. Apr 3, 2011
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Jason the splitter you two put up is 5 star.an a much safer end to the climb. i saw the old mess of burnt webbing an opted for yer route ... great work.. May 1, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed that the thin hands finish is the way to go. A 70m rope works fine for this. I took a new #6 camalot and it didn't fit anywhere. I recommend taking 2x new #5 camalots as the biggest piece. Place one to back up the drilled angle and another up higher in that OW instead of bumping one with you the whole way like I did and risk a bad fall if you come out with it in your hand. The chimney leading up to the drilled angle isn't very well protected, although maybe a huge big bro would fit. Then again, it's probably easy(er) than I made it if you don't suck at OW. Oct 16, 2012
Josh Tokioka
Kirkland, WA
 
Josh Tokioka   Kirkland, WA
 
  • **Heads up***

I climbed this route this past weekend and went for the direct finish. When I got there, I tried to rebuild the anchor,because it was suneaten and worn. half of it promptly pulled out. What is left is a sketchy bolt and a blue metolius that is pretty jank.

  • **Do not go for the direct finish***, the anchor is quite janky at this point and not nearly as bomber. Anyways, the other finish looks much better.
Feb 23, 2015
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Anchor is fixed on the direct finish .. They are at the top of the detached piller .. 6inch bolts bomber Q links ... The rope pulles nice an clean now ... Enjoy... DF Mar 6, 2015