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Routes in Bend West

Ambient Domain T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another One Bites the Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C.I.A. (Central Inquisition of Attitudes) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cascade Curtain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruel Harvest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hallowed Ground T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
House Rules S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Private Passion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pure Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reckoning T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salmon Song T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sugar Kicks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tiers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tragically Hip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Treatment Bound T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zero Tolerance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart (1988)
Page Views: 1,231 total · 11/month
Shared By: andyf on Jan 13, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A lot of routes climb "aretes," but relatively few are true arete climbs: climbs where you literally lieback your way up the edge. This is one of those climbs.

Start up a chossy short pillar (3 bolts, somewhat harder than it looks) and top out on a ledge. The hardest crux comes right off the ledge at a high first bolt: grab the arete and paste your feet high. The climbing doesn't back off much the rest of the way, with technically sustained and tenuous moves clear to a wonderful jug at the arete's apex. Your left hand leaves the arete for only two or three moves the whole way. Great position at the finish.

After being retrobolted in 2000, this route now looks overbolted from the ground. Maybe it is, but I've yet to see anyone skip a bolt.

Location

Far right side of Pure Joy area. To the left of the arete is the Ambient Domain dihedral (5.10c).

Protection

11 bolts, 8 on the upper arete. Chain anchor. Originally climbed with 5 bolts, all on the upper arete.

Photos

AndyM
 
AndyM  
 
The first bolt was about 15 feet off of the chossy pillar ledge. So if you fell before clipping it, which is fairly likely on an on-sight attempt, it wouldn't be pretty. Nov 19, 2014

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