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Routes in The Cliffs of Insanity

Butter Cup T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iocane Powder TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prepare to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Princess Tried, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R.O.U.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingered Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Dougls Snively and Bernard Gillett, 2002
Page Views: 906 total · 8/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Butter Cup climbs the SW face of the cliff to the top the arete climb, "The Princess Tried, 5.11b". The climbing has great position and exposure in the canyon. There are a handful of what do I do here moments but nothing too hard. End at a two bolt anchor on the left, and rap 90 feet to the ground. You will need to hike around the base to reach your packs.


Find a sunny alcove on the West side of the cliff above a small spire. Butter Cup starts on a small ledge system to the left.


#2 Camalot and quick draws....


Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I have mixed feelings about this climb. The good part is the exposure, position and rock quality, all excellent. However, I would have probably equipped the route a little differently, avoiding the initial crux moves by taking the path of least resistance a few feet to the right. It is possible to climb straight up through the first bolt, but it's more like thin 5.9 and can easily be avoided.

Also, it is just as easy to traverse right at the belay ledge to set a TR on the "Prepare to Die" overhanging fist crack if that's your thing. Apr 17, 2011
Andrew Shewmaker
Longmont, CO
Andrew Shewmaker   Longmont, CO
The move to the first bolt is not difficult, but it does pose a high risk since the drop the the climber's left is pretty high. We scrambled up the right side of the route to set a sling around a rock and run the rope through it, protecting the first move. Oct 3, 2011
Scott Hunt
Golden, CO
Scott Hunt   Golden, CO
What is the climb above the anchors for Buttercup that goes up the roof? (The beta photo shows someone belaying from the anchors of the first pitch of The Princess Tried, 5.11. The anchors for Buttercup are to the right.) Nov 5, 2016

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