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Routes in Buzz Rock
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Babylon Sister S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dig Hay Zoose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fez, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Five Pitch Harmony S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gracie's Bosch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Graphite and Glitter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Green Flower Street S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Revenge of the Whipped Cream S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sphincter Squeeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zooze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Jackson and Steve Peterson |
| Page Views: | 1,123 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Rob P on Jan 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
Pitch 1 - Start up a cool slab with nice jugs. Traverse slightly right on some easier ground then move up through a steeper section to the crux of the first pitch. This is immediately above a sub anchor which is meant for rappelling not belaying. Make a tough move above the sub anchor then continue up another slab. You will encounter one more delicate section just before the belay in an alcove. 5.10a 12 bolts 45 meters.
Pitch 2 - move right around the alcove then up a corner with thrilling exposure. Continue up and diagonally right to a cruxy boulder problem below a short face. Crank a couple of hard moves to a nice jug and then a good rest. Continue up the face to a slab to the anchor. 5.10b 4 bolts 15 Meters.
Descent - make a 30 meter repel to the sub anchor then one more to the ground.
Note - most people assume that this route is two pitches to the alcove, including past and present guide book authors. Due to this fact the true second pitch has likely only seen a few ascents.
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