PRINT: Rock Climb Boogie Till ya Puke, Moore's Wall

Boogie Till ya Puke

5.12b, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 26 votes
FA: Monty Reagan
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Moore's Wall > Moore's Wall (R… > N End

Description

Pull the opening boulder problem of Middle Road and traverse right a few feet past good gear. Pull the steep roof past 2 bolts and a pin to a jug and gear. Finish on jugs to the anchor. Pumpy for its height. Perfect rock and fun movement.

Location

North End. The guide mentions that the original start traversed in from Vascular Disaster, which is true. There used to be a fixed stopper to protect this but it is gone now. It also mentions some "unprotected" starts. Everyone I know starts on Middle Road. This way is very well protected, fun, and consistent with the difficulty of the climb. I'd recommend this option.

Protection

3 bolts and an old pin (that most people skip). Good gear after the opening boulder problem and between the last bolt and anchor. The anchor is a fixed hex that wiggles and I think a fixed stopper. It seems fine but I'd back it up with a small cam if you plan on TR.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Robert Fogle pulling the roof

Alex Rollins pitching off the crux

Robert making the final move of the crux

Robert Fogle on Boogie

On the jug after the initial boulder problem

Alex at the roof

Alex in the biz

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

porter jarrard

I did a direct direct start directly below the crux, pulling a low roof and following a seam. Ends up on the jug right of the Middle Road start/traverse-in. This version was protected by traversing in from VD and clipping the first good gear on BTYP. I think I may have lead that start out of boredom at some point, as well, for an R/X variant...the most direct line. Mar 18, 2009

Kyle Townsend
Slade, KY

A foothold in the traverse section low on the route has broken. Mar 2, 2020