Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Boogie Till ya Puke

5.12b, Trad, 50 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 23 votes
FA: Monty Reagan
N Carolina > Moore's Wall > N End

Description

Pull the opening boulder problem of Middle Road and traverse right a few feet past good gear. Pull the steep roof past 2 bolts and a pin to a jug and gear. Finish on jugs to the anchor. Pumpy for its height. Perfect rock and fun movement.

Location

North End. The guide mentions that the original start traversed in from Vascular Disaster, which is true. There used to be a fixed stopper to protect this but it is gone now. It also mentions some "unprotected" starts. Everyone I know starts on Middle Road. This way is very well protected, fun, and consistent with the difficulty of the climb. I'd recommend this option.

Protection

3 bolts and an old pin (that most people skip). Good gear after the opening boulder problem and between the last bolt and anchor. The anchor is a fixed hex that wiggles and I think a fixed stopper. It seems fine but I'd back it up with a small cam if you plan on TR.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Robert Fogle pulling the roof
[Hide Photo] Robert Fogle pulling the roof
Alex Rollins pitching off the crux
[Hide Photo] Alex Rollins pitching off the crux
Robert making the final move of the crux
[Hide Photo] Robert making the final move of the crux
Robert Fogle on Boogie
[Hide Photo] Robert Fogle on Boogie
On the jug after the initial boulder problem
[Hide Photo] On the jug after the initial boulder problem
Alex at the roof
[Hide Photo] Alex at the roof
Alex in the biz
[Hide Photo] Alex in the biz

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I did a direct direct start directly below the crux, pulling a low roof and following a seam. Ends up on the jug right of the Middle Road start/traverse-in. This version was protected by traversing in from VD and clipping the first good gear on BTYP. I think I may have lead that start out of boredom at some point, as well, for an R/X variant...the most direct line. Mar 18, 2009