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Routes in Tuna and Chips Wall

Albacore Man T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Chips Ahoy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chips and Salsa T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dolphin Safe T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fishbreath T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minnow, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sierra Club Tower TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tuna Cookies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tuna and Chips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Waterstreak T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,334 total, 12/month
Shared By: Christine Gal on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

use anchor of Chips Ahoy, just left of the route


Location

route starts at the right end of the wall

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.5
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.5
Route protects well with mostly cams and a couple of nuts if you want to sew it up. The rock is a bit soft in places but more solid than a lot of the trad leading in the area (based on my limited trad leading in RR). It is more solid than average for trad climbing on sandstone in general, but it might be a surprise for those new to leading trad on sandstone.

The end is exposed but not too bad. Just traverse around behind the pillar (entering cl. 2-3 terrain for a bit) and climb it from the backside. Moves are a bit exposed but very solid with good stances. The face part is protected by a bomber small cam in desert varnish that is placed from a good stance just before the climbing resumes 5th class. Then you can girth hitch a solid hourglass to protect the final move that is a juggy mantle & step around to get on top of the pillar. Moves with this gear never take the last piece any lower than your feet. Jan 31, 2016
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
This has the softest rock i have ever climbed on. Tri cams and larger wires are the best bet . The last traverse moves to the anchor are a bit scary for the grade. Apr 10, 2014
Ron Graham
  5.3
Ron Graham  
  5.3
This route at the far righthand side of the Tuna & Chips wall and leads up an anchor on the wall just west of the front of the alcove forming The Oasis. It's easier in my opinion than Chips & Salsa, which is rated at 5.3. It is highly featured and offers lots of protection opportunities, and would be a good route for a beginning trad leader. However, some of the rock is soft and friable, so care should be taken on gear placements, especially cams. The route contains numerous and well distributed spots for solid nut placements. The route can be rapped with one 60 meter rope. Dec 21, 2009