PRINT: Climb The Wet Itchies, Maple Canyon

The Wet Itchies

WI4+, Ice, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 20 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Ice > Left Hand Fork Ice Cl…

Access Issue: Private Property/Skin or Hike Approach Details

Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.

The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.

All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.

Description

Steep ice that mellows a bit in the middle then one last little steep bit to the chains on the right.

Location

In the Engagement Alcolve, about a hundred yards up the Left Hand Fork of Maple Canyon on the right. Follows the rock route of the same name.
One 60m rope gets you down with plenty of rope to spare.

Protection

Stubbies to medium sized screws. One could reach way to the right and clip a couple of bolts on an adjacent sport route. Traverse to the right about six feet to a set of anchors with rings. Or if it is thin at the top you can clip a set of chains immediately to the right of the ice (on 1/08/09 there was one chain exposed).

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Wet Itchies

DC top roping the Wet Itchies 1/08/09

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Morreyd

Get on it early..it tends to back melt..there are some sport bolts about 3 ft to your right if you need them. Feb 3, 2011