Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Rick Rivera & Karl Guthrie 2006
Page Views: 1,034 total · 9/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 8, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Start up chossy rock for the first few bolts, be careful not to knock anything off here. Around the 4th? bolt a hard reach is encountered, from a sidepull up to a jug, I thought this was the crux. From here traverse left on easier ground to a seemingly detached pillar, surmount this and enjoy the no hands rest. There are two bolts you can clip here, seemed to me like clipping the right one would be a better fall.

From the ledge, make a few powerful moves on mostly good holds avoiding the pump on your way up to the anchors. Most people seemed to think the crux was in this section, in particular getting too and moving off a small three-finger pocket.

Location

Leftmost route at the Surfbowl

Protection

12 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

yevquest
Southeast,US
  5.11d
yevquest   Southeast,US
  5.11d
This is a nice example of a route that shouldn't have been bolted. More than half the route is on crap rock complete with lots of glue. The climbing after the huge rest is fun but way too short to make the choss worthwhile.

For what it's worth, we thought that when the parallel bolts were encountered, the left one was for Bluefin and the right was for the linkup with Surfer Rosa. Mar 24, 2009
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Pile of choss. Not really worth climbing.... Mar 26, 2012
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12a
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12a
This route is cleaning up nicely and after the second bolt the rock quality drastically improves overall a good route. Mar 6, 2013