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Spring Chicken
5.11c/d,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Scott Beguin
New Mexico
> Santa Fe Area
> Diablo Canyon
> Cockscomb Crag
> Other Side
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's (
blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) (
bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG (
nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are:
The Shack,
Winter Wall,
Solar Cave,
Lake Street and
Styx.
Description
Start on a slight overhang with not best holds. Follow a tough sequence (not so positive) through the first four bolts which is the crux, to easier climbing and a good rest at a shelf. Milk the rest and prepare for some sequential crimping on flawless rock up the slightly overhanging head wall to the anchors.
Location
This route is located about 20 yards to the east (left) of
The Other Side.
Protection
9 bolts to 2 bolt springer anchors. The first bolt is low, stick clip recommended for the second bolt.
Los Alamos, NM