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Granny's Route
5.4,
Sport, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 1.3 from 50
votes
FA: Jim Shimberg 11/02
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> 5.8 Crag
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area.
Details
Description
This route right now would be described as chossy at best, Jim Shimberg cleaned this route a few years back for two reasons, an easier climb for beginners and an alternative to walking around the cliff to put up a top rope. This climb is fun even in the mossy conditions. Without the moss the holds can seem sharp because it is a newer route. There is no defined crux but as the route is now the crux would be dealing with the mossy holds. This route could be close to the same quality as
A Week With Pete with just a little bit of love, I am going to try to clean this line once the ice melts off of it. The route itself goes straight up the slab on good moves, if you are the
5.8 Crag and don't mind some moss get on this route you will have some dirty fun.
Location
This is the far left route at the 5.8 Crag, this is left of
Asbury Park when you reach the Asbury Park arete walk around it and it will be a few feet from the arete just past a cluster of trees close to the rock, look for the easy mossy slab with bolts.
Protection
4 maybe 5 bolts and anchors
[Hide Photo] My 80 year old grandpa killing it in a button down and suspenders. Dirty 5.4 has never looked so good.
[Hide Photo] hahaha... the holds are much cleaner than this...
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I think if you somehow fell while clipping the second bolt, you'd get hurt. But honestly, the stance is like a ledge there, so it's unlikely to happen. Like many of Shim's routes, it's bolted safely-but-sparsely. Sep 20, 2013