Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 1,136 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bruce Burgess on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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First pitch (5.7) is a great bolt and gear face that climbs a short left facing corner at mid height and ends at a sweet belay ledge with two bolts. The 2nd pitch takes the left angling crack to bolt protected face that curls back right on jugs to a ledge with left arching corner above (00 tcu placement low on ledge). Move up the corner a bit then right past a bolt (crux) to the double bolt belay.


25 feet right of Black Socks at a Chestnut Oak


Light rack of cams tiny to 3.5 inches and some stoppers.


Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
I guess what is described here is different than what is pictured and shown in the new guide book. The guide book shows it going up the flake system maybe 6-8 feet left of blood route (12a). We did that flake system on TR and it didn't feel like 10a. It didn't have any bolts and the gear in the upper section would be questionable. We did find the 3 bolt line to the left of the 1p belay and directly above the left tree, this is probably the right line for Huffin Cedar and it had super fun moves and it was protectable. Jan 19, 2015
Bruce Burgess
Bruce Burgess  
Correct. The route to the left of the flake is Huffin. That flake and face above is a really good toprope problem too! There are a few errors in the new guide book. Jan 19, 2015
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
Thanks Bruce,

Okay that make lots of sense now. We decided to just go with the flow once we got out there to left field. It had a nice adventure feeling and didn't see another soul.

That top rope problem was really cool! That move getting of the flake system and getting established higher up was neat.

I couldn't quite figure out where that unknown crack list in the book was, maybe I was closer to the waterfall / streak?

Thanks for finding and putting these gems out there. Jan 20, 2015
Thanks for posting on it Mike and Bruce. I added your updates on the Ground Up website, hopefully that sums them up?
grounduppublishing.com/?p=851 Jan 20, 2015
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
Thanks Mike, and great work with the book. The hand drawn topos are awesome. and the descriptions gave me a good push to get out to the further areas and do some wandering. Jan 21, 2015
Jill H.
Spartanburg, SC
Jill H.   Spartanburg, SC
Iā€™m 5ā€™1ā€ and the P2 mantel and P2 crux after last bolt were both reachy for me but doable on second. Crux felt a lot like the crux on P2 of Linn Cove Lullaby at Ship Rock. We traversed left on the ledge at P1 and went up under the first bolt. Nov 4, 2018