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Banshee
5.11c,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 762
votes
FA: Eric Anderson - 2005
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Solarium
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit
Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at
muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Anchor your belayer and step out over the void, follow bolts up and right to a huge hueco. Sit down and ponder the meaning of life. Exit the hueco and make difficult moves up and right to a second hueco (Abiyoyo 5.12b heads up and left from the first hueco). Sit down and ponder why we climb. Exit the hueco and follow jugs to the anchor.
Location
Starts at the far right end of the wall as the ledge that all the routes star from peters out to nothing, find an achor bolt to start.
Protection
Bolts and a bolted anchor.
[Hide Photo] Above the second hueco and into the steep, big jugs, fun climbing to the top.
San Diego, CA
Fun, exposed, solid 5.11 with good opportunities to rest.
Bring a stick clip - the route begins by traversing off the edge of a small cliff. There are a pair of bolts for the belayer to anchor into, but you'd still want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a factor-2 fall. Jul 3, 2013
Estes Park, CO
Salt Lake City, UT
Red River Gorge
rockville
"must-do" route. Climbing into the big hueco tends to be the crux for most people. If you're not feeling solid on the left crimps just reach a little right to get your hands solid in the middle of cave's lower lip. Going into it dead center feels a lot more secure on pumped hands in exchange for traversing just a touch more than you need to. Once your're in that last last hueco cave the climb is totally done...just rest up and enjoy super cruiser sub 5.10 climbing tot he chains.
Perma-draw on the 2nd bolt makes it cleanable on lower and also lets you lower onto the belay ledge without gymnastics. BUT WAY BETTER to clean on a follow - 60m with a knot is safe to lower someone all the way to the ground. Oct 15, 2019
Rogers, AR
Travelers Rest, SC
San Francisco, CA