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Banshee

5.11c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 762 votes
FA: Eric Anderson - 2005
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Solarium
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

Anchor your belayer and step out over the void, follow bolts up and right to a huge hueco. Sit down and ponder the meaning of life. Exit the hueco and make difficult moves up and right to a second hueco (Abiyoyo 5.12b heads up and left from the first hueco). Sit down and ponder why we climb. Exit the hueco and follow jugs to the anchor.

Location

Starts at the far right end of the wall as the ledge that all the routes star from peters out to nothing, find an achor bolt to start.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jacob on Banshee
[Hide Photo] Jacob on Banshee
Cynthia Ganon hanging in the hueco.
[Hide Photo] Cynthia Ganon hanging in the hueco.
A climber working up Banshee. May 2013.
[Hide Photo] A climber working up Banshee. May 2013.
Noah Bramalage on Banshee
[Hide Photo] Noah Bramalage on Banshee
no caption needed
[Hide Photo] no caption needed
Peek-a-boo!
[Hide Photo] Peek-a-boo!
Collin Brochard on Banshee
[Hide Photo] Collin Brochard on Banshee
Banshee 5.11c
[Hide Photo] Banshee 5.11c
Christiaan basking in the sun on a send burn up Banshee.
[Hide Photo] Christiaan basking in the sun on a send burn up Banshee.
Banshee human flag
[Hide Photo] Banshee human flag
Above the second hueco and into the steep, big jugs, fun climbing to the top.
[Hide Photo] Above the second hueco and into the steep, big jugs, fun climbing to the top.
Banshee
[Hide Photo] Banshee

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best pitches I've ever done for sure. A super long exposed adventure on killer clean rock. The upper headwall above the second hueco was relaxed 5.10 and very fun. Just try not to get too caught up enjoying the view! Jul 11, 2012
[Hide Comment] The bouldery moves up an into the 1st hueco felt a little harder than the bit leading into the second. Just my opinion. Mar 21, 2013
[Hide Comment] Awesome! super awesome!

Fun, exposed, solid 5.11 with good opportunities to rest.

Bring a stick clip - the route begins by traversing off the edge of a small cliff. There are a pair of bolts for the belayer to anchor into, but you'd still want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a factor-2 fall. Jul 3, 2013
Dom R
Estes Park, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I can hear my heartbeat in here Mar 22, 2015
Nick Grounds
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Easily my favorite route in the Red. Try not to have too much fun on the most satisfying jug haul to the top. Dec 4, 2016
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb. Apr 18, 2017
Matthew Jaggers
Red River Gorge
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I didn't think there was a distinct crux. Getting into the huecos are banlancey, but not hard. Don't over think it. There's some longish moves, but all the holds are great. Feels shorter than 100ft because of the great rests. Mar 30, 2019
James Elric
rockville
[Hide Comment] The moves are not quite as satisfying as air ride equipped, but it is a dope
"must-do" route. Climbing into the big hueco tends to be the crux for most people. If you're not feeling solid on the left crimps just reach a little right to get your hands solid in the middle of cave's lower lip. Going into it dead center feels a lot more secure on pumped hands in exchange for traversing just a touch more than you need to. Once your're in that last last hueco cave the climb is totally done...just rest up and enjoy super cruiser sub 5.10 climbing tot he chains.

Perma-draw on the 2nd bolt makes it cleanable on lower and also lets you lower onto the belay ledge without gymnastics. BUT WAY BETTER to clean on a follow - 60m with a knot is safe to lower someone all the way to the ground. Oct 15, 2019
Brennan VanDyke
Rogers, AR
 
[Hide Comment] I was looking back through my old ticks today, and this point, I think Banshee is probably the best mid-5.11 I’ve ever done. I haven’t spent too much time in the Red but this route sure left one hell of an impression on me. Sep 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] Incredible route. Have fun on this! Nov 30, 2021
Jared Hancock
Travelers Rest, SC
 
[Hide Comment] The bat is still there. It surprised me yesterday when I grabbed the hold up and left of the top hueco. It bravely defended it's cliff home and ruthlessly attacked me with some light scratching on my left ring finger. Sep 6, 2022
[Hide Comment] Bats are the leading cause of rabies deaths in people in the United States. Oct 14, 2022
Nolan Pollock
San Francisco, CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Maybe I'm missing something but this thing seems overhyped. The climb is basically two eh boulders and then 40ft of overbolted 5.9 jugs. Nov 18, 2022