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Galunlati

5.12b, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 181 votes
FA: Jared Hancock, Tim Powers, Josh Thurston - 2005
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Solarium
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb easily up an arete then step right onto the steepening face. Make a vicious move off of a thin hold at the second bolt and continue with crimpy climbing through a few more roofs. The upper half of the route eases significantly but gets steeper so you still have to hold on.

Location

The first route on the cleaner less steep wall at the right side of the crag. Starts on a short arete infront of a boulder, more or less the center of the wall.

Protection

Bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mary Jamison climbing one of many classic lines on this beautiful wall, Galunlati (12b/7b).
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Photo: @dirtysouthclimber
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Climber: @marycjamison
[Hide Photo] Mary Jamison climbing one of many classic lines on this beautiful wall, Galunlati (12b/7b). Photo: @dirtysouthclimber Climber: @marycjamison
Resting before the low crux...
[Hide Photo] Resting before the low crux...
Doug pulling through the top section of Galunlati.
[Hide Photo] Doug pulling through the top section of Galunlati.
Doug down low on Galunlati.
[Hide Photo] Doug down low on Galunlati.
Kevin just before the traverse
[Hide Photo] Kevin just before the traverse

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Skyler Lawrence
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The "viscous hold" at the second bolt can be bypassed using alternate beta and makes the lower half of the climb much more enjoyable. Highly recommended route to get on if the overhung Super Best Friends isn't your forte. Apr 23, 2014
Jarek Voyles
Beattyville, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Slightly overlooked classic at a wall full of classics. If technical face is more your speed, you’ll love it. The crux feels like a less steep (and easier) Moonboard problem. Dec 21, 2022
Andy Dodds
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Going left at the 2nd bolt definitely seems like the more natural flow of the rock and goes at 12a when compared to the other routes on the wall. Going right and doing the crimp sequence goes at 12b, but it just feels wrong to me to bail right off the arete when there are such good holds literally 12-24" in front of your face. Oct 18, 2023
Nathan Devan
Sandy, SLC UT
[Hide Comment] Here's a video of me not bailing right off the arete and using the alternative beta on the left but also one of the holds in the cave is damp, but then downclimbing the original RHS beta part way and then continuing back up. 12a left feels fair. The rest of the climb is a blast.
youtu.be/uePuV6hHzyQ Nov 24, 2025