PRINT: Rock Climb Phantasia, Red River Gorge

Phantasia

5.12d, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 30 votes
FA: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula - 1990
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Phantasia

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Climb the technical slab maybe 5.12- up to the roof. After a few moves out the roof you will encounter a sequence on badly sloping pinches that requires good body tension to climb through. After this the rest of the route is easier to the anchors. If you can convince someone to TR it to clean that would be in your best interests as cleaning while lowering is a pain.

Daniel Boone National Forest provided RRGCC special permission for permadraws on Twinkie & Phantasia. This was an exception for these two specific routes. Permanent, fixed quickdraws are otherwise still prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.

Location

The right hand route out the huge roof towards the right side of the main crag. Just right of Twinkie.

Protection

Bolts and bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Entering the business on the stellar Phantasia.

Zeb heading toward the chains for an onsight...

Zeb on the slabish start...

Katie Brown on the sheer slab portion, photo: Bob Horan

Katie Brown on the severe overhang, photo: Bob Horan

It really is that steep. Finishing up the crux section.