Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 636 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 5, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

SDS as low as possible at a steep flake and work up the flake until possible to break right to a rail and then continue further along a shelf to finish with an easy mantle.

Longer and slightly harder than the other Tilt-o-Meter problems and one that a spotter is nice to have as you pass over a rock midway.

Location

Northeast corner of the boulder.

Protection

pads, spotter

Photos

- No Photos -
C Miller
CA
  V1+
C Miller   CA  
  V1+
Tilt-o-Meter Right on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=IvzxwHq… Jun 8, 2009
Clif Clap
  V2
Clif Clap  
  V2
The video actually gives bad beta as it skips the hardest part of the climb. If you start on the other side of the flake, you battle the dab from multiple angles as you reach across right to where the video begins. Your feet and even your back easily hit the rock underneath if you don't pull up hard and employ a toe hook or heel hook and some flagging to keep yourself off the ground.

Plus, it's way more fun from the true start as figuring out how to not dab is awesome in a group of people with varying heights as it brings out different beta. One very tall person in our group used double toe hook. It went! Nov 25, 2015
Andrew B  
 
Trying to get this without dabbing is pretty difficult! It's a very low SDS with a stretched out right move, I ended up doing a bit of a sloppy send with a few dabs, but I'm also not very critical of dabs in general. Feb 14, 2018