Everest Ridge is a Utah Valley area classic alpine climb. This route is famous for the 1992 "Utahns on Everest" expedition who used the route to train for their climb of Mount Everest
(news article). This route can be climbed snow-free during dry summer months, however, this is a description for an alpine-like climb of the route during winter/early spring when snow is present.
Everest Ridge can be climbed car-to-car in one long push. The climb is most often done with an overnight stay in Big Baldy Pass as the climb is fairly steep and long. An overnight camp in the pass is a worthwhile outing in itself offering amazing views of Utah Valley and the Wasatch Range.
The climb starts as a hike on the well maintained
Dry Canyon trail to the top of Big Baldy Pass. The final approach into Baldy Pass is often covered with deep soft snow requiring snowshoes. Terraces have been carved into the slopes south of the pass for erosion control and provide flat, sheltered camp locations.
From the pass climb through a stand of quaking aspen to gain the bottom of Everest Ridge. Here the slope steepens enough to make snow shoes impractical (stash snowshoes as you leave the aspens and get out crampons/ice axe). In ideal conditions the snow on the ridge is sunbaked and wind-swept making for good styrofoam cramponing snow.
Ascending Everest Ridge starts by following a steep slope between two short cliff bands. This beginning slope can and does avalanche. Climb next to (or over) one of the cliff bands to avoid unnecessary exposure and gain the ridge proper. Some route-finding is necessary on the ridge as snow conditions change. Be prepared to cross some exposed rock.
A rock band near the top of the ridge may be climbed under some conditions, but is usually bypassed by traversing right on steep exposed slopes.
Avalanche Caution: Climbing the ridge does provide some protection from avalanche exposure, but there are exposed slopes where great care should be taken. Acceptable alpine conditions can be found from mid-January into early March.
Avoid Everest Ridge during high avalanche conditions. Route Info:
Dry Canyon: 5,450 ft (1,661 m), GPS: N40.34226 W111.67673
Baldy Saddle: 8,300 ft (2,530 m), GPS: N40.37159 W111.65527
Everest Ridge Summit: 11,650 ft (3,551 m), GPS: N40.38632 W111.64431
Timpanogos Summit: 11,750 ft (3,581 m), GPS: N40.39118 W111.64600
Dry Canyon to Baldy Pass: 2.70 miles, 2,850' elevation gain
Baldy Pass to top of Everest Ridge: 1.28 miles, 3,350' elevation gain
ER Summit to Timp Summit: 0.37 miles, 100' elevation gain (also some elevation loss)
One-way Distance: 4.35 miles (7 km)
Total Elevation gain: 6,300 ft (1,920 m)
More photos and information can be found on
SummitPost.org
Use crampons and an ice axe for a winter ascent.
See Wasatch Tours Vol 3. Jan 6, 2009
Wasatch Front, UT
Tenesmus, the steep faces of Timp are sometimes skied/boarded but not by me. =) The conditions have to be just right. I think the ridge offers the best protection from avalanches. I was on Everest Ridge once when the cloud ceiling dropped and we were hit by a powerful snow storm. With poor visibility, we headed down the ridge to find we were NOT on the ridge we had climbed up. My old yellow GPS (no maps) indicated we were too far north. The white-out was disorienting and the GPS directions didn't make sense. With the storm intensifying and cliff bands below us, we elected not to retrace our steps back up, but to traverse south across the face to try to find Everest Ridge again. The more fresh snow that fell the greater the avalanche danger on the exposed slopes, but the near white-out made it easier to cross the steep slopes without being able to see the huge exposure below. After quickly crossing three ridges and still not reaching Everest Ridge itself we found a way to descend around the cliff bands and glissade back down to better visibility. One more ridge and we would have finally gotten back onto Everest Ridge. Amazing. High on the ridge we somehow had gone down one of off-shoot ridges to the north (see
Pocatello, ID
According to Wasatch Tours Vol.3 it was the first winter ascent of the mountain. Jan 14, 2009
Wasatch Front, UT
From LeGrand Hardy's 1954 obituary: byhigh.org/cgi-bin/ez-direc…
"Always interested in the out-of-doors and any challenge that it presented, he was a member of the small party that was the first to climb Mt. Moran of the Teton range in Wyoming." (Perhaps he was a member of this party in 1941.) Jan 15, 2009
SummitPost has an excellent route description summitpost.org/route/163152… as well Jan 18, 2009
Wasatch Front, UT
Look for perfect conditions on this route during the next several weeks. Jan 19, 2009
utah
also any tips? forwarning? Mar 3, 2010
Pocatello, ID
I didn't have snowshoes and don't think they would have helped. I put away my trekking poles and got out my ice axe and crampons at Baldy Saddle. The traverse right under the step was reasonable and enjoyable. It was easy to stay off the cornices on top and on solid rock.
One note about the trailhead: There are a few trails that leave from the Dry Canyon parking lot. The one you want, the one that actually goes up the canyon to Baldy Saddle, is on the FAR RIGHT of the parking lot. I made the mistake of going up one of the trails that starts at the left and wasted half an hour.
I've got an extended TR and lots of pics on my blog here. tristanhigbee.com/ice-and-w… Apr 21, 2010
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Anyone have an estimate of time from Baldy to the hut? Feb 1, 2011
Wasatch Front, UT
Suggest watching the weather the weeks before going for amount of fresh snow fall, temperatures, and amount of sun-baking which will give some indication of the amount of snow consolidation. Sometimes you just have to go up and get on it!
I've heard some other groups are heading up the ridge in the next two weekends. Maybe they will post the conditions that they find. Look for ideal conditions over the next few weeks.
Time from saddle to summit will certainly depend on conditions and fitness. Feb 6, 2011
Pocatello, ID
Salt Lake City, UT
There is a bit of scree slogging towards the end but it's not as bad as that on the standard trail from Sundance, iirc.
Anyways, just wanted to add my two cents that this route, when dry, is still a very worthy objective and has just enough oomph to feel like more than a hiking route. Oct 7, 2017
Kamas, UT
OH, WA, UT
Also for egress, the west face below South Timp can be glissaded. I started at the saddle and found it straight forward with only one short, easy downclimb. Apr 26, 2024