Type: Snow, Alpine, 6300 ft
FA: Dean Brimhall & LeGrand Hardy (February 19, 1916)
Page Views: 12,407 total · 92/month
Shared By: John Ross on Jan 4, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Everest Ridge is a Utah Valley area classic alpine climb. This route is famous for the 1992 "Utahns on Everest" expedition who used the route to train for their climb of Mount Everest (news article).

This route can be climbed snow-free during dry summer months, however, this is a description for an alpine-like climb of the route during winter/early spring when snow is present.

Everest Ridge can be climbed car-to-car in one long push. The climb is most often done with an overnight stay in Big Baldy Pass as the climb is fairly steep and long. An overnight camp in the pass is a worthwhile outing in itself offering amazing views of Utah Valley and the Wasatch Range.

The climb starts as a hike on the well maintained Dry Canyon trail to the top of Big Baldy Pass. The final approach into Baldy Pass is often covered with deep soft snow requiring snowshoes. Terraces have been carved into the slopes south of the pass for erosion control and provide flat, sheltered camp locations.

From the pass climb through a stand of quaking aspen to gain the bottom of Everest Ridge. Here the slope steepens enough to make snow shoes impractical (stash snowshoes as you leave the aspens and get out crampons/ice axe). In ideal conditions the snow on the ridge is sunbaked and wind-swept making for good styrofoam cramponing snow.

Ascending Everest Ridge starts by following a steep slope between two short cliff bands. This beginning slope can and does avalanche. Climb next to (or over) one of the cliff bands to avoid unnecessary exposure and gain the ridge proper. Some route-finding is necessary on the ridge as snow conditions change. Be prepared to cross some exposed rock.

A rock band near the top of the ridge may be climbed under some conditions, but is usually bypassed by traversing right on steep exposed slopes.

Avalanche Caution: Climbing the ridge does provide some protection from avalanche exposure, but there are exposed slopes where great care should be taken. Acceptable alpine conditions “can” be found from mid-January into early March. Avoid Everest Ridge during high avalanche conditions.

Route Info:
Dry Canyon: 5,450 ft (1,661 m), GPS: N40.34226 W111.67673
Baldy Saddle: 8,300 ft (2,530 m), GPS: N40.37159 W111.65527
Everest Ridge Summit: 11,650 ft (3,551 m), GPS: N40.38632 W111.64431
Timpanogos Summit: 11,750 ft (3,581 m), GPS: N40.39118 W111.64600

Dry Canyon to Baldy Pass: 2.70 miles, 2,850' elevation gain
Baldy Pass to top of Everest Ridge: 1.28 miles, 3,350' elevation gain
ER Summit to Timp Summit: 0.37 miles, 100' elevation gain (also some elevation loss)

One-way Distance: 4.35 miles (7 km)
Total Elevation gain: 6,300 ft (1,920 m)

More photos and information can be found on SummitPost.org

Location

The climb begins as a hike up Dry Canyon. Get to Dry Canyon trail head by driving east to the top of Orem's 2000 North or Lindon's 200 South (one and the same) and turn left on Dry Canyon Drive (just before the road bends south). This street becomes a narrow paved road and ends at a paved parking lot at the mouth of Dry Canyon. Park here. Follow the trail between the cliffs.

Protection

Use crampons and an ice axe for a winter ascent.

Photos